Seeing the Monarchs in Their Natural Realm

This may just be the best of what’s left of California’s southern coastline: grasslands, vernal pools and some of the nation’s best monarch butterfly groves--all linked by footpaths with stunning views of the Santa Ynez Mountains, Channel Islands and the Pacific Ocean.

But development pressures from both the private sector (a proposed suburban subdivision) and the public sector (a proposed sports complex) threaten to overwhelm the bluff tops adjacent to the campus of the University of California at Santa Barbara.

The beaches, bluffs and residential community a dozen miles north of downtown Santa Barbara go by the name of Ellwood Beach and Santa Barbara Shores.

The bluff tops are owned by three landowners with different agendas: the county parks department, Southwest Diversified (the developer) and a university-administered nature preserve.

While projects are not likely to begin before 2000, a lot of ground will be broken if developments proceed as planned.

Concerned citizens need only check out the suburbs mushrooming opposite this coast on the inland side of U.S. 101 to be able to imagine what’s in store for Santa Barbara Shores.

Should developments proceed, much of the area’s trail system will remain intact; however, the face of Santa Barbara Shores will change.

Hiking from Santa Barbara Shores County Park to UCSB is a special experience. From the trail head, the hiker takes inspiration from a half-mile-wide grassland extending to the sea cliff edge. In winter and spring, grasses form a palette of greens dotted with shallow, shimmering pools. In summer and autumn, the grasses turn shades of amber gold and russet. Scattered atop the bluffs are about two dozen vernal pools, topographical depressions that attract flora able to adapt to alternating wet and dry periods. Millions of monarch butterflies migrate to winter roosts in the eucalyptus woodlands that border the inland side of Santa Barbara Shores. Scientists rate these groves as among the three largest over-wintering sites west of the Rockies.

For a first-time visit, I’d suggest a counter-clockwise loop out to the coast and a return via the butterfly groves.

Directions to trail head: From U.S. 101, 12 miles north of downtown Santa Barbara, take the Glen Annie Road/Storke Road exit. Turn left on Storke Road and drive to the first intersection. Turn right on Hollister Avenue and proceed 1.6 miles to an unsigned turnoff on the left (coast) side of the road. Turn left into the parking lot of Santa Barbara Shores County Park.

The hike: Choose either the straight-toward-shore west trail that leads alongside a eucalyptus windbreak and the Sandpiper Golf Course or a signed path that cuts diagonally across county parkland toward the shore. Head down-coast atop the 60- to 80-foot-high cliffs, which are cloaked in buckwheat, sage, lemonade berry mustard and fennel. Half a mile’s travel brings you to a junction with a major beach access trail. Continue one-quarter mile across the bluffs to a line of eucalyptus trees and join a northbound trail that follows the trees inland. As you near the residential area of Santa Barbara Shores, you’ll encounter a confusion of paths meandering amid the eucalyptus. Head toward the end of these residential cul-de-sacs and a bit to your left (west) until you intersect the major east-west footpath through the eucalyptus groves. Head left on this path. You’ll intersect the county park’s main trail that will return you to the trail head.

McKinney’s book “Day Hiker’s Guide to Southern California” is available through The Times for $16.45 (including tax, shipping and handling) by calling (800) 246-4042.

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Santa Barbara Shores Trail

WHERE: Santa Barbara Shores County Park

DISTANCE: 3.5-mile loop; longer and shorter options available.

TERRAIN: Grassy coastal bluffs, vernal pools, eucalyptus woodlands.

HIGHLIGHTS: Magnificent monarch butterfly groves; the best of what’s left of the Southern California coast.

DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY: Easy

FOR MORE INFORMATION: Santa Barbara County Parks Department, 610 Mission Canyon Road, Santa Barbara, CA 93105; tel. (805) 568-2461.