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1996 Huet Le Mont Vouvray sec, Loire Valley (About $20)

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To most wine collectors, the Loire Valley just isn’t as sexy as Bordeaux or Napa Valley. That’s fortunate for the rest of us, because it means the Loire’s best wines are undervalued. This Vouvray sec (a dry Chenin Blanc, as opposed to the better-known sweet Vouvrays), from the single vineyard Le Mont, is certainly an excellent buy. It has beautiful balance, an impressive concentration of fruit and a tremendous finish. It’s a stunning white wine by any standard.

It goes superbly with food, with seafood and Asian dishes in particular. And the great thing about it is that it’s only going to get better with age. Some of the 1995 vintage is still around at local retail shops, and that’s terrific too.

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