Trout

Delicate and mild and often quite delicious, trout surfaces rarely in Los Angeles restaurants--but here are some recent sightings:

* Indochine: Ca Nuong, or grilled marinated brook trout stuffed with fresh Asian basil, is one of the more popular dishes at this swank, clubby, post-Colonial restaurant. (Trout, $14.75.) Indochine, 8225 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 655-4777.

* Orso: The menu rotates often at Orso, but keep an eye open for what is possibly the best trout in the city: a grilled trout with wilted radicchio and a roasted garlic cockle sauce. Diners previously indifferent to trout may suddenly find themselves downright passionate about the freckled freshwater fish. (Grilled trout, $19.) Orso, 8706 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles, (310) 274-7144.

* Perroche: Slices of chef Grady Atkins’ silken, house-smoked trout are languidly draped over a lightly dressed baby red potato, then topped with a pungent sauce of horseradish and creme frai^che. (Smoked trout appetizer, $9.) Perroche, 11929 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 766-1179.

* Drago: Here the trota affumicata (house-smoked trout) is served with a Peruvian potato salad--that is, blue potatoes dressed with oil and lemon. (Smoked trout salad, $11.) Drago, 2628 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 828-1585.

* Houston’s: For a classic spring meal, try the rainbow trout grilled over hardwood and served with fresh asparagus. There’s also the more lavish Louisiana-style pecan trout that is also grilled over hardwood with Creole mustard sauce and served with French fries. (Trout, $12-$19.) Houston’s, 1550A Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach, (310) 643-7211; 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, (310) 557-1285; 5921 Owensmouth Ave., Woodland Hills, (818) 348-1095; 320 S. Arroyo Parkway, Pasadena, (626) 577-6001.

* Le Petit Cafe: At this tiny and charming neighborhood cafe, chef Robert Bourget serves a boneless rainbow trout in a classic saute amandine--that is, pan-fried with butter, almonds and lemon. (Trout, $10.75.) Le Petit Cafe, 2842 Colorado Ave., Santa Monica, (310) 829-6792.

* Alegria: At lunch in this tapas bar and cocina Latina, the kitchen makes a bocadillo--a Spanish-style sandwich--with grilled trout in a spicy tomato (arrabiata) sauce. Served with chips and a small Caesar salad. (Trout sandwich, $6.50.) Alegria Cocina Latina, 115 Pine Ave., Long Beach, (562) 436-3388.