Just for Kicks
The action was half a world away in Paris, but the agony and the ecstasy welled over in two bars in Studio City and West Los Angeles.
As the World Cup, the global soccer competition that provokes frenzy virtually everywhere on earth but the United States, got underway in the French capital, local fans gathered at spots where they knew their passion would be shared.
Some 85 partisans of Scotland’s team got together at The Fox and Hound, a British-style pub in Studio City. About 100 Brazilian rooters waved flags, chanted “ole” and pounded samba drums at Zabumba, a small eatery and bar on Venice Boulevard.
“I think a lot of people took an hour and a half off today to watch the game,” said Gary Buckner of Studio City, a London-born construction worker who took time out for the game.
“It’s that crucial,” said Buckner, 37. “The Scots are very passionate. You’ll hear that when they are rooting for their team,” Buckner said. “Of course, a few beers helps.”
Given the early morning hour--it was afternoon in Paris--the question was whether to have coffee or a drink.
“I had a coffee and a couple of beers,” said Steven Melrose, 30, an Edinburgh native who lives in Toluca Lake. “After all, I am from Scotland.”
“Soccer is everything,” said a happy Gisele Queiros, 27, a native of Rio de Janeiro and a waitress at Zabumba. “We were born for it. We came out of our mothers’ wombs waving a flag and yelling ‘Brazil!’ ”
Brazil, after all, is a country where schoolchildren desperate for the game crumple notebook paper into balls to play on sidewalks and beaches, where World Cup games featuring Brazil are considered unofficial holidays. For those who showed up as early as 7 a.m. for a game that began at 8:30 Pacific time, waking early was more than worthwhile.
“I was beginning to get withdrawals,” said Marcone Oliveira, 28, who complained about the dearth of soccer coverage in the U.S.
Oliveira came to Los Angeles eight months ago to study English. “I look through the different Spanish channels to see if I can catch a game or surf the Internet for game updates,” he said.
At The Fox and Hound, people were already lined up outside the door when he arrived at 6:45 a.m., said Gary Richards, who opened the pub eight months ago.
“We had about 85% capacity,” Richards said. “I didn’t really expect for it to be that busy.”
Richards said about 60% of those in the crowd were regulars at the pub, which features soccer broadcasts from England each week on a large-screen television and three smaller units.
For the Brazilians, there could be no soccer without samba, the heavy drum music of Brazilian Carnaval.
“Soccer and samba is the total combination,” said Lula Almeida, a “mestre de bateria” or drum master, who kept the beat and the energy inside Zabumba throughout the game.
What’s more important than samba and soccer?
“During World Cup?” asked Monica Burgos, co-owner of Zabumba. “Not even God.”
Ironically, the only non-Brazilians present who understood such a passion for the game were a couple of Britons.
“Football for us is like everything,” said Justin Risdon, 26, a Los Angeles resident.
Risdon’s friend Andy Wright said he is dismayed by the apathy and ignorance about soccer that most Americans display.
“A guy asked, ‘Is that the Dodger Stadium? Are they playing today?”’ Wright said. “It’s unbelievable.”
Defending world champion Brazil was saved from an embarrassing draw with Scotland by scoring a lucky goal in the second half.
Cringing in anticipation in the last minutes of a game too close for comfort, the Brazilian fans tugged at their hair and pleaded for the referee to speed the end of the game. As the the final whistle blew, cementing Brazil’s 2-1 victory, they exploded into pandemonium, chanting to the beat of the samba drums, “Ole, ole, ole, ole, Brazil, Brazil!”
Then, the workday having begun two hours ago, many rushed out the door and headed for their jobs, waving their flags.
“It was muito (very) cool,” said Daniel Gray, 25, who said he ditched work to watch the game. “We got here at 7:15 to get good spots right in front of the TV.”
Melrose hung about The Fox and Hound until 11:45 a.m., commiserating with fellow Scotlanders. Still, he said, most of the dejected fans were surprised their team held its own against the powerhouse Brazil.
“We’re good underdogs,” Melrose said. “It could have been an annihilation, but it ended up being a good game.”
“We’re glorious in defeat.”
Richards said he is advertising in local British-community newspapers and doubling staff to handle the crowds he expects for the rest of the world cup competition, opening early to show the games live.
“Monday is going to be worse,” Richards predicted. “England plays at 5:30 a.m., local time.”
