Short Ribs

It may be June, but some days it still feels like February. For some last-ditch hearty fare before summer dims the appetite, try short ribs, certainly one of the tastier cuts of beef.

* Broadway Deli: A new item on a long menu, the short ribs at this Third Street deli are slow-cooked to a rich, caramelized density, then served on creamy polenta. ($12.95.) Broadway Deli, 1457 Third St. Promenade, Santa Monica, (310) 451-0616.

* Musso & Frank: Braised short ribs of beef with vegetables--peas, carrots and baby onions--is the weekly Saturday night special at Hollywood's oldest restaurant. Come early, though, before they run out. ($20.) Musso & Frank, 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, (213) 467-5123.

* Taylor's Prime Steaks: Terrific, moderately priced and therefore a highly popular steakhouse, Taylor's serves short ribs every Thursday night (at both locations). The dinner comes with soup or salad and great sourdough bread. ($12.75.) Taylor's Prime Steaks, 3361 W. 8th St., Los Angeles, (213) 382-8449; 901 Foothill Blvd., La Canada, (818) 790-7668.

* M&M; Cafe: The tender meaty short ribs in this South Los Angeles soul food spot remind us of the lively, invigorating and too often overlooked virtues of black pepper. Peppery short ribs come with a choice of three side dishes. ($9.) M&M; Cafe, 9506 S. Avalon Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 777-9250.

* Soot Bull Jeep: Grill your own kalbi (marinated short ribs, on or off the bone), over hardwood charcoal at this popular Korean barbecue palace. Once cooked, wrap them in red leaf lettuce with a daub of bean paste, pickled daikon and kimchi. ($13.) Soot Bull Jeep, 3136 W. 8th St., Los Angeles, (213) 387-3865.

* Nate 'n Al's: The short ribs here have a reputation for being some of the best in the city. A generous portion of ribs comes with vegetable, potato, bread and butter, and optional gravy. ($13.75.) Nate 'n Al's, 414 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, (310) 274-0101.

* Gardens: The Four Seasons' Gardens cafe menu appropriately lists oven-roasted BBQ beef short ribs under the heading "Flavors From Home." These satisfying ribs come with shoestring potatoes. ($14.50.) Gardens at the Four Seasons, 300 S. Doheny Drive, Los Angeles, (310) 273-2222.

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