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The Ever-Expanding Fekkai Focus

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TIMES FASHION EDITOR

Any manual on How to Build an Empire should include the chapter “Begin as a Popular Hairstylist.” That would certainly describe the Frederic Fekkai story.

The inventive French-born hairdresser keeps expanding his domain. First, he re-created his cheerful New York salon on Rodeo Drive, complete with walls painted in the sun-drenched tones of his native Provence. It made sense that he would produce an excellent line of brushes and hair-care products (one friend with coarse, unruly hair swears by his Shea Butter Hair Mask).

All those years of looking at women and advising them on their appearance have taught him a few things about cosmetics too. So his own line of makeup doesn’t include a million colors. Just perfect powdered blush for almost every complexion; fat, pliant, lip-liner pencils; and eye shadows in soft, neutral shades.

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Fekkai has just introduced an accessories collection, which includes handbags, scarves, sunglasses and hair ornaments. The sunglass selection, like Fekkai makeup, is limited and well-focused. Eight frame shapes are offered in a variety of colored plastic, from lavender and smoky green to tortoise. The sunglasses feature the discreet new Fekkai logo: interlocking, curved Fs that resemble crossed swords. The scarves are made in rich solid colors. Some combine velvet backed with silk or cashmere, and others are silk lined with panne velvet.

Funny thing about those ponytail holders, hair bands and barrettes, though: He created them under duress. Fekkai, who made his reputation as a great cutter, and prides himself on the haircutting skills of his staff, believes a good haircut should stand on its own. But since his clients have asked for pretty doodads to put in their hair, he created sculptural and functional hair accessories in leather, suede and snakeskin that work with a style instead of covering it up.

Handbags might be the last thing you’d expect from a hairdresser.

“The first thing that I always notice about a woman is her handbag,” Fekkai says. “It is the finishing touch that makes or breaks a look.”

And it would be a shame not to get the most out of a good logo. The double Fs elegantly brand the smooth calfskin of the leather goods collection, subtly inspired by Fekkai’s memories of Provence. Some purses and coin holders combine smooth calf with embossed trim, the textured leather resembling the woven fabrics of the region. The most unusual element of French craftsmanship are handles and closures sculpted of delicate pieces of wrought iron that echo Provencal architecture.

Fekkai cosmetics, hair products and accessories are available at the Fekkai salon, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus.

Too Successful for Their Own Good: AIDS Project Los Angeles’ annual fashion event, a major fund-raiser for the organization, may be a victim of its own success. Three years ago, Calvin Klein was the man of the evening. That blowout party was followed by a raucous Todd Oldham bash. Last year’s Gucci fashion show and dinner at the Santa Monica airport topped them all in a number of ways, including the $1 million it raised for the charity.

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The APLA event is normally held in May or June, but no sponsor/honoree has yet been found. The rumor is, the fund-raiser is being postponed until September or October, because it’s been difficult to find someone willing to follow Gucci. No one wants to invest the time and money it takes to mount a successful party and have people say, “Last year’s was better.”

Gucci spent lavishly, and invested time and effort securing donations from airlines flying models here. Makeup artists and hairstylists donated their time, as did top models.

“What we really wanted to do was raise the most money possible for the charity, and the way to do that was to underwrite the cost of the event,” said Gucci spokeswoman Lisa Shiek. “We were fortunate enough to be able to do that, but I don’t know how many companies can.”

An APLA representative said, “We’ve had some interest and we’re confident that we’ll come up with someone for 1998. It’s just a matter of scheduling.” So if the party invitation hasn’t landed in your mailbox yet, don’t worry. You’re not alone.

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