1995 Allegrini Valpolicella Superiore “Palazzo della Torre,” Veneto (About $13)

Valpolicellas are usually light, pleasant red wines, the kind that are ideal for washing down a big plate of pasta. But this delicious example from Allegrini is no lightweight; it’s a Valpolicella with muscle. Sophisticated and structured, the 1995 Palazzo della Torre is super-ripe, tasting of dark cherries and just a hint of almonds.

It’s still a great pasta wine, but it’s big enough for poultry, game and meats, too.