Heart of Iceberg

Poor iceberg lettuce--it’s been defamed for so long. But many of us still adore the crunchiest salad of all: a big wedge of iceberg, preferably in blue cheese dressing.

* Taylor’s Prime Steaks: Pass up the perfectly decent dinner salad and order the sublime Molly, named for the waitress who invented it. It’s a huge wedge of lettuce sprinkled with diced tomatoes and onions and big chunks of blue cheese, then doused with a half-Italian, half-blue cheese dressing. At the La Can~ada location, there’s an article on the Molly’s history in the men’s restroom! (Molly salad, $2.95.) Taylor’s Prime Steaks, 3361 W. 8th St., Los Angeles, (213) 382-8449; 901 Foothill Blvd., La Can~ada, (818) 790-7668.

* Casa Bianca: Unless otherwise specified, half a head of lettuce is sprinkled with tomatoes, peppers, black olives and anchovies and served with Italian dressing at this mecca of old-fashioned pizza. (Half head of lettuce salad, $3.95.) Casa Bianca Pizza Pie, 1560 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock, (323) 256-9617.

* Musso and Frank: At this 80-year-old Hollywood institution, you can get anchovy, 1000 Island or vinaigrette dressing, but the most traditional is blue cheese or imported Roquefort. (Hearts of lettuce salad, $4.50; salad dressing, $2.50 to $3.) Musso and Frank, 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, (323) 467-5123.

* Kincaid’s Bay House: This Redondo Beach steak and chop house serves a “knife and fork salad” consisting of an iceberg wedge on mixed greens, garnished with shaved carrots, pickled onion rings, Roma tomatoes and croutons. Served with Maytag blue cheese dressing. (Knife and fork salad, $4.95.) Kincaid’s Bay House, 500 Fisherman’s Wharf, Redondo Beach, (310) 318-6080.

* Ruth’s Chris Steak House: The heart of lettuce salad has been with this New Orleans-based chain since its inception; whenever the owners have tried to take it off the menu, customers have rebelled. It’s a split head of iceberg on a bed of baby greens in the dressing of your choice; the house remoulade (a creamy garlic dressing) or the ultra-thick blue cheese dressing are recommended. (Heart of lettuce salad, $5.25.) Ruth’s Chris Steak House, 224 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, (310) 859-8744; 2961-A Michelson Drive, Irvine, (949) 252-8848.

* Arroyo Chop House: You can get a classic chilled heart of iceberg with ranch dressing, vinaigrette or the recommended blue cheese at this newish Pasadena steak place. (Heart of lettuce, $6.) Arroyo Chop House, 536 S. Arroyo Parkway, Pasadena, (626) 577-7463.

* Dal Rae: This venerable institution of red meat also has the hearts of lettuce salad, which you can have with blue cheese, ranch, French, “marinara” (oil and vinegar) or the house creamy anchovy-based Caesar. (Hearts of lettuce, $4.95.) Dal Rae, 9023 E. Washington Blvd., Pico Rivera, (562) 949-2444.