California, the Land of Syrahs

In my college days, when the red wine of choice in my circle was Hearty Burgundy (except on nights when we raised our sights to Beaujolais), our band of merrymakers chanced upon a full-bodied, lusty red wine called Cha^teauneuf du Pape. We liked it because it had more flavor than Beaujolais and came in a fancier bottle.

It’s a blend of grapes from France’s Rho^ne Valley, mostly Grenache. But it is not, I would later learn, the most interesting wine from the Rho^ne, nor is it even typical of the area. The most important Rho^ne reds are either mostly or wholly made from the Syrah grape.

Somehow Syrah did not migrate to California with other famous grape varieties in the 19th century. But it did make its way to Australia, where it’s called Shiraz. In Australia, Syrah either stands on its own or is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon (a blend no self-respecting Frenchman would consider).

In California, we have a grape variety known as Petite Sirah, which was long thought to be the true Syrah of the Rho^ne. When it was discovered in the ‘70s that the grape was in fact a lesser variety known in France as Duriff, California grape growers began to plant the real Syrah. It has taken the better part of two decades, but there is now enough Syrah in California for the grape to prove its mettle here.

And so it has. In blends and by itself, Syrah has taken to our sunny clime, and its success seems to ensure that the grape is here to stay.

* * * 1997 Swanson Vineyards “Alexis,” Napa Valley, $40. Swanson’s “Alexis,” at its most spectacular with the current vintage, is about one-third Cabernet Sauvignon. Its deep aromas start out with the blackberries and spice of Syrah while still picking up the broad, rich, loamy aspects of Napa Valley Cabernet. Full-bodied, balanced and firm in the mouth in the manner of Cabernet, it is filled with the ripe, succulent fruit of Syrah. It’s a bit tannic at present, which is not the least bit surprising given its blend of grapes, but the wine is so deep that it will go well with special meals now and can certainly last up to a decade if you decide to cellar it. I have.

* * * Orion “Rossi Vineyard” $60. One cannot talk about Syrah without at least mentioning this powerful, complex, very collectible wine from winemaker Sean Thackeray. Since he makes so little, it will be almost impossible to find, but keep an eye peeled for this one or anything else from Thackeray. His wines are always worth a try when you are in the mood for something bold, tannic, deep and massive.

* * 1997 Swanson Vineyards, Napa Valley, $40. More distinctively Syrah than the “Alexis” but not quite so deep or so complex overall, this very fine wine leads with lavish, rich oak layered upon fairly concentrated varietal fruit. Full in body and nicely balanced with well-integrated tannins providing a touch of grip to its lingering finish, this wine will tempt early drinking, but a few years in the cellar will soften and fill it out further.

* * 1997 Truchard Vineyards, Carneros, Napa Valley, $30. The Truchard is every bit as ripe as the Swanson but somewhat firmer in construction, possibly because it is grown in a cooler Carneros climate. It delivers an enticing mix of ripe berries, peppery spice, oak and a hint of loam in its complex aromas. On the palate, it finds some of Syrah’s gamy edge in its classically varietal character. Bright and somewhat refined, it promises to get better and better over the next half-dozen years.

* 1997 Ojai Vineyard, California, $19. This likable Syrah, with a flavor essentially centered on ripe black cherries, sports a fair measure of varietal spice throughout. Its ripeness, though plainly evident, is never overdone, though a little heat intrudes into the slightly tannic finish. A few years of cellaring will help smooth things out.

* 1997 Preston Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley, $17.50. Here is a wine that blends in some of the lesser-known varieties that spark Cha^teauneuf du Pape. Light, fruity Cinsault and weighty Mourvedre, each about 12% of the blend, help bring a straightforward, fairly direct quality to this moderately deep Syrah. Its attractive blackberry notes extend from nose to clean, lightly tannic finish. Suggestions of oak and spice add to its charms.

$ * 1996 Clos Du Bois Shiraz, Alexander Valley, $15. This lighter bottling, with a 20% dose of Cabernet Sauvignon, sports lots of sweet oak in its quietly dusty cherry-like aromas. It’s not as big or well-muscled as many of its competitors; it trades on clean, likable fruit and on its sunny, ready-now disposition.

$ * 1997 Qupe, Central Coast, $14. Unusual among California Syrahs for adding notes of plum and evergreen to its berry-like fruit aromas, its rounded, somewhat succulent texture is also plummy. It’s well-balanced and fairly lengthy in its finish. One might wish for more complexity and concentration from a Syrah, but no one should feel slighted by the quality this wine delivers for the money.

$ * 1997 R. H. Phillips “EXP,” Dunnigan Hills, $14. This tasty, fruity wine--one of the favorites at our neighborhood Fourth of July barbecue--is relatively full-bodied and open, without the strong tannins that often accompany young Syrahs. Its ripe blackberry fruitiness is sweetened by oak, and it is a real value for the money.

Tasting Notes is based on tastings conducted by Connoisseurs’ Guide to California Wine, a monthly newsletter devoted to the critical review of California and West Coast wines. Readers of the Times may obtain a sample copy by sending their name and address to: CGCW, P.O. Box V, Alameda, CA 94501, by calling or faxing, (510) 865-3150 or by e-mailing CGCW@aol.com.

Definition of Symbols

* * * A world-class wine, superb by any measure, the top 1% to 2% of all wines tasted.

* * An exceptional wine, well worth the effort to find, 10% to 12% of wines tasted.

* An admirable wine, tasty, focused, attractive, about 25% of wines tasted.

No Rating: The best are quite pleasant and can be good buys when moderately priced.

$ Good value for the money.

x Below average quality, to be avoided.