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HIKING: YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK : Gaylor Lakes Glitter From High Sierra Perch

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John McKinney is the author of "Day Hiker's Guide to California's State Parks" (Olympus Press, $14.95)

On the hike to Gaylor Lakes you’re guaranteed to feel the “high” in the High Sierra. The climb begins in the shadow of Yosemite National Park’s Tioga Pass entrance station at nearly 10,000 feet in elevation. It’s the highest trail head in the park.

The path climbs through the rarefied air, delivering views of snow-capped peaks and Gaylor Lakes, two cobalt gems rimmed by dramatic crags. Wildflower connoisseurs will marvel at hillsides known to bloom with lupine, columbine and corn lily. Daisy, Sierra wallflower, penstemon and spreading phlox add to the trail-side bouquet.

And if lovely lakes, wildflowers and wonderful views aren’t sufficiently enticing, this hike offers something else: a walk into history. Near trail’s end is the site of the Great Sierra Mine, reason for the predecessor of Tioga Road, and an ambitious undertaking even by the standards of gold-fever-crazed 19th century prospectors.

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In 1881, the Great Sierra Mining Co. hauled tons of machinery to Gaylor Lakes Basin and beyond and proceeded to drill and blast a 1,784-foot-long main tunnel into the mountains behind Upper Gaylor Lake.

For a few years the boomtown of Dana, complete with its own post office, thrived. Just north of Dana stood an even more remote town, Bennettville, headquarters of the mining company. After four futile years of digging, the miners abandoned efforts to uncover the rich vein of silver believed to lie buried deep below this rugged country.

A bit beyond Upper Gaylor Lake, hikers will discover an old stone cabin, a rather well-built structure with 2-foot-thick rock walls that dates from the 1880s. Other mine ruins are located near the cabin. With so much scenery packed into a short hike, this trail is fairly popular (at least for a park pathway so far removed from Yosemite Valley). Get an early start to avoid the crowds.

Directions to trail head: Head for Yosemite National Park’s east-side entry station on Tioga Pass Road. Park in the lot west of the station. You’ll share the parking lot with hikers bound for Mt. Dana.

The hike: Begin with a very steep westward ascent on switchbacks over slopes seasonally sprinkled with wildflowers. As you catch your breath, enjoy the in-your-face views of Mt. Dana to the east.

The path climbs past scattered, stunted white-bark pine and lodgepole pine. After a 0.75-mile ascent that seems much longer, you’ll crest a rocky ridge and behold Gaylor Lakes and commanding Gaylor Peak to the east and the Cathedral Peaks to the west.

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Soon the path descends rapidly, losing some of that hard-won elevation, to the first (Middle) Gaylor Lake, located one mile from the trail head. From the lake, the path follows the inlet creek on a mellow eastern ascent. A mile of walking through meadows brings you to Upper Gaylor Lake, situated at about 10,500 feet in elevation.

Admire the lake’s stirring backdrop, cone-shaped Gaylor Peak. Follow the trail around the left (north) side of the lake. A stiff 0.1-mile ascent takes you to the old stone cabin and the site of the Great Sierra Mine. A bit farther up the trail lie several mine shafts--but keep away.

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Yosemite / Gaylord Lakes

Where: Tioga Pass Entrance, Yosemite

Distance: From Tioga Pass to Gaylor Lakes is 4 miles round trip with 900-foot elevation gain.

Terrain: Alpine lakes and peaks.

Highlights: Two -mile-high lakes, colorful mining history.

Degree of Difficulty: Fairly strenous because of elevation.

Precautions: Trail is accessible until snowfall closes Tioga Road.

For More Information: Yosemite National Park Public Information Office P.O. Box 577, Yosemite National Park, CA. 95389; tel. (209) 372-0200

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