Bu^che de Noel

This festive French Christmas cake, shaped like a yule log, may be covered with meringue mushrooms, marzipan berries or fresh holly. Whatever the design, it tops off any Christmas celebration.

* Joan’s on Third: In the heart of West Hollywood, this chic takeout shop offers a bu^che de noel made of moist chocolate roulade rolled with whipped cream and dusted with cocoa. It’s sprinkled with chocolate shavings and can be decorated with meringue mushrooms and fresh Christmas greens. (Bu^che de noel: whole log, 10 to 12 servings, $48; half log, $24; decorated log, $65.) Joan’s on Third, 8350 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles, (323) 655-2285.

* Paris Pastry: Raymond Lobjois has been baking bu^ches de noel for more than 25 years. He rolls genoise (sponge cake) with whipped cream or butter cream, depending on the flavor: mocha, chocolate, chestnut, chocolate raspberry, Grand Marnier or, for the millennium, tiramisu. (Bu^che de noel: 12 servings, $24.50; 16 servings, $30; 22 servings, $36). Paris Pastry, 1448 Westwood Blvd., Westwood, (310) 474-8888.

* Michel Richard: At this charming cafe-bakery, the bu^che de noel is a light genoise cake rolled with coffee or chocolate butter cream and topped off with little Christmas trees. (Bu^che de noel: eight servings, $28, 12 servings, $40.) Michel Richard, 310 S. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 275-5707.

* Pascal/Pascal Epicerie: You can order bu^che de noel for dessert at the restaurant or go next door to the epicerie and pick up a “yule log” to take home. The pastry chef rolls up a thin genoise with a light, fluffy mousse filling, then ices it with butter cream and decorates it with jam, marzipan and meringue ornaments. (Bu^che de noel: dessert, $5.50; takeout cake, inch-wide serving, $3.50.) Pascal, 1000 N. Bristol St., Newport Beach, (949) 752-0107; Pascal Epicerie, 1000 N. Bristol St., Newport Beach, (949) 261-9041.

* Sweet Lady Jane: Here, a dark chocolate hazelnut genoise is filled with raspberry butter cream, iced with dark chocolate ganache, dusted with powdered sugar. (Bu^che de noel, 15 to 20 servings, $75.) Sweet Lady Jane, 8360 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, (323) 653-7145.

* Cayo: Open just six weeks, this warm, elegant place next to the Pasadena Playhouse offers individual bu^ches de noel. The miniature logs are spongecake soaked in liqueur, filled with eggnog butter cream and topped with a pale butter cream icing. (Bu^che de noel, $9.), Cayo, 39 S. El Molino Ave., Pasadena, (626) 396-1800.