RESTAURANTS

Suzanne Goin

Chef, co-owner of Lucques, 32

What she’s done: Goin, who worked at Campanile for two years, the second as executive chef, just opened her own restaurant with partner Caroline Styne. She began her career in L.A. while in high school as an apprentice pastry chef at Ma Maison. She has worked in kitchens as diverse as the rustic Italian Il Forno in Providence, R.I., and at the Mediterranean Olives in Boston. She also spent two years at Berkeley’s seminal Chez Panisse, and six months in the then Michelin two-star kitchen of Alain Passard’s Arpege in Paris.

Outlook for ‘99: Though Lucques (pronounced “Luke” and named after a French olive) debuted only a few months ago, it stands out as the smartest newcomer. Everything about this West Hollywood restaurant is well thought-out: from its elegant design (by L.A. interior designer Barbara Barry) to its fresh, appealing one-page menu, a capable wait staff and Goin’s polished French-Mediterranean cooking. Plus, there’s a smashing patio for outdoor dining. Lucques is open late, too, with a savvy bar menu that’s served until midnight most nights. Where else can you get such a terrific steak frites at 11 p.m.? Or a trio of perfectly ripe cheeses to finish off that bottle of Burgundy? Sunday nights, she offers a three-course prix-fixe menu for less than $30.