The Great Chardonnays in the Sky

Try as I might to resist, the economist in me comes out when I look at the skyrocketing wine prices of the last few years. It may have been a while ago, but back in my university days, I learned that when the supply of a commodity goes up, the price should go down. I am a firm believer in the laws of supply and demand, but I sometimes wonder if they apply to the wine business.

Take Chardonnay, for instance. There is more Chardonnay in California today than any other grape. Indeed, there is probably more Chardonnay here than in all of France. And these 100,000 acres of Chardonnay are a relatively new phenomenon. Yet for all of the nonstop planting of the grape, wine prices keep going up. I guess we are drinking it faster than they can plant it.

That is why this list of wines is a mixed but expensive collection. Some expensive wines are worth the money when you are looking for something special. Others are not. And the most expensive wines are not necessarily the best. Buying wine is always about selectivity, and no grape is more demanding today than Chardonnay.

* * 1997 De Loach Vineyards “OFS,” Russian River Valley, $30. One of my favorite Chardonnays over the last decade, De Loach’s OFS (which the winery insists stands for “Our Finest Selection”) is typically very ripe, very bright and fruity, and comes kissed with a fair bit of oak-barrel toastiness. This version of OFS is a little different; the winery has opted to lighten the style somewhat, and the result is a wine that has a fair bit of elegance. This wine has lively apple fruit and a crisp lingering finish.

* * 1996 Girard Winery, Napa Valley, $25. A few winemakers are now choosing to leave their Chardonnays unfiltered, even though this practice gives the wine a hazy appearance. They are acting on the theory that filtration not only removes suspended solids in the wine (natural by-products of fermentation) but also removes aroma and flavors. This wine is a member of the small but growing “hazy Chardonnay” crowd, and, to be sure, it has plenty of rich, ripe apple, lemon custard and toasty, roasted grain character. This is a big and viscous wine, rich and deep in character.

* 1997 Byron Vineyard & Winery, Santa Maria Valley, $19. An interesting mix of lees, citrus, sweet oak and hints of tropical fruit introduce this medium- to full-bodied wine, and it follows on the palate with a bit of roundness in texture and some ripe apple fruitiness to its well-focused, medium-intensity flavors, becoming somewhat firmer toward the finish. This one will gain added suppleness with another year in bottle.

$ * 1997 De Loach Vineyards, Russian River Valley, $18. Another dependable Chardonnay from De Loach, and it certainly resembles its upscale sibling in its reliance on bright fruit and balancing acidity. Here, though, the wine is a bit less deep and less complex, with the result that fruit and a hint of succulence become the order of the day. Widely available on restaurant wine lists, it is often our first choice because it is tasty and worth the price.

$ * 1997 Mount Eden Vineyards “MacGregor Vineyards,” Edna Valley, $17. Largely directed by rich oak and roasted grain/lees characteristics, this expressive bottling is kept on course by its slightly lesser measure of apple fruit. It’s still more likely to win favor for its obvious winemaking qualities than for its fruit.

1997 Arrowood Winery, Sonoma Coast, $26. If not quite earning a star, this wine from the talented winemaker Richard Arrowood will find followers for its creamy oak and sweet, ripe apple and pear aromas and flavors. Just a touch coarse and hot in the mouth, it comes into its own when served with food.

1997 Far Niente Winery, Napa Valley, $44. Always among the pricier producers, Far Niente has garnered a substantial following even though it seems to miss as often as it hits. Here, despite a fair bit of oaky richness and evident fruit in the aroma, the wine is surprisingly dry and wiry across the palate. Cellar aging may open it up somewhat, but it’s not going to make up for the fruit that has gone missing.

1997 M. Trinchero, Napa Valley, $25. Worth noting because it comes from the now very large Sutter Home Winery owned by the Trinchero family. This first attempt at an up-market bottling signals the winery’s intent to add a quality line of wines to its mass-market label. This one is weighty on the palate and somewhat oaked, but it lacks a clear fruity thrust.

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Definition of Symbols

* * * A world-class wine, superb by any measure, the top 1% to 2% of all wines tasted.

* * An exceptional wine, well worth the effort to find, 10% to 12% of wines tasted.

* An admirable wine, tasty, focused, attractive, about 25% of wines tasted.

No Rating: The best are quite pleasant and can be good buys when moderately priced.

$ Good value for the money.

Below average quality, to be avoided.