Philosophically Speaking

Two at Les Deux?: Les Deux Cafes in Hollywood has lost chef David Wynn to Paris. Although Wynn remains the consulting chef, James Grey, who’s been working at Les Deux for more than a year and a half, has stepped up to the executive chef position. Will Grey showcase his own style on the menu? No way. Says Grey: “To me that’s the kiss of death. I’m very much keeping with the philosophy of Les Deux Cafes. I’m carrying on the banner.” But he will make seasonal changes soon, and you’ll see a little of his personal style in the new specials, but there are also menu items that will remain untouched. He’ll continue in the pure French style, with no California or Asian touches.

* Les Deux Cafes, 1638 N. Las Palmas Ave., Hollywood; (323) 465-0509.

Cicada Doings: Chef Christian Shaffer has found himself heading the kitchen at Cicada, situated in the historic Oviatt building in downtown L.A. Shaffer trained in Venice a few years ago, then returned to L.A. to work with Joachim Splichal in four of his restaurants. At Cicada, Shaffer tells us, “we’re trying right now to be a more authentic Italian restaurant. The menu before was kind of all over the map.” To that end, Shaffer is curing sardines and some meats (e.g., guanciale) in-house. By the by, James Oviatt, who built the Art Deco Oviatt building in 1928 to contain his clothing store on the first two floors, also designed the penthouse as his living quarters. Cicada owners Stephanie Taupin and Adelmo Zarif have managed to get their hands on the tony rooftop terrace (which once had a pool and a sand beach). It’s available for banquets and private parties.

* Cicada, 617 S. Olive St., L.A.; (213) 488-9488.

More Chow: Eurochow, Michael Chow’s new place in Westwood, opens Friday night. (Chow owns the Mr. Chow restaurants in Beverly Hills, New York and London.) Lunch, tea, dinner and late supper will be served in a historic domed building, done up as only a former architect like Chow could imagine. He’s installed a huge white obelisk, a Venetian-style bridge, a table for two on a balcony and a glass dining room floor with a view of the wine cellar below. Chef Andrea Rogantini aims to combine Asian cuisine with authentic Italian. Eurochow will be open from 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. daily.

* Eurochow, 1099 Westwood Blvd., Westwood Village; (310) 209-0066.

Feeding Dad: Father’s Day is Sunday, so may we suggest a few manly meals?

The Whale and Ale is serving an all-you-can-eat buffet brunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. with free-flowing Champagne, carving station, omelet and egg station, roast turkey and lots of English stuff, such as steak and kidney pie, bangers and mash, sherry trifle. It’s $18.95 for adults, $9.50 for children under 10. Dinner is served from 4 to 9 p.m. Dad gets a bonus with either meal: a free English pint glass.

* The Whale and Ale, 327 W. 7th St., San Pedro; (310) 832-0363.

I Cugini heaps up the seafood on its brunch buffet, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Dishes include grappa-cured salmon, broiled shrimp and braised salmon, plus all the Champagne you can drink. It’s $25.95 for adults, $9.95 for children under 12; children under 5 are free. Dinner is served from 4 to 10 p.m.

* I Cugini, 1501 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica; (310) 451-4595.

Muldoon’s Pub in Newport Beach is serving its regular lunch and dinner menu, along with hungry-man specials like a 20-ounce Porterhouse steak with fries for $18.95.

* Muldoon’s, 202 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach; (949) 640-4110.

The Yard House, Long Beach, will be serving Sunday brunch and its regular lunch and dinner menus. And Dad can down a draft (he has a choice of 250 types of beer) in a yard, half yard or pint glass.

* Yard House, 401 Shoreline Drive, Long Beach; (562) 628-0455.

Through the end of June, he can celebrate old Hollywood with appetizers and cocktails at the Windows Lounge and Bar in the Four Seasons Hotel. Maybe he’ll go for Coconut Grove oysters, Scandia salmon pastrami sandwiches or a Schwab’s chocolate soda. For a harder kick, he can sip Romanoff punches, Moscow mules or Scandia martinis.

* Four Seasons Hotel, 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A.; (310) 273-2222.