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Antique Charm, Prices in the Caribbean

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Once upon a time, before the era of mega-resorts, the Caribbean was full of charming small-scale properties, the kind that lacked gyms and minibars but did boast plenty of old-fashioned character, with touches like four-poster beds and antiques in the rooms. Nowadays, the nightly rates at many of these little “boutique style” charmers are also hitting $150 or $200 a day or more.

But, thankfully, not at all of them. Below are some suggestions for hideaways on several islands where you’ll pay $100 per night or less through April or May.

* Martinique--St. Aubins Hotel: On the Atlantic side of this elegant French-flavored island, this quirky three-story villa with pointed roofs, wraparound verandas and a lofty antique lobby is like a trip back into the colonial past. The 15 rooms are less gussied up, but have conveniences such as air-conditioning and phones, and run from $82 to $98 a night for two, with breakfast. Telephone 011-596-693-477; fax 011-596-694-114.

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* Puerto Rico--Hacienda Juanita: At a 160-year-old coffee plantation in the jungle-clad hills of the interior, not far from Mayaguez, up to 42 guests at a time are serenaded by tree frogs and songbirds in a setting of palms and mahogany trees. There’s also a pool and restaurant. Simple but comfortable rooms go for about $90 for one person or $120 for two, with breakfast and dinner. Tel. (787) 838-2550; fax (787) 838-2551.

* Saba--Scout’s Place: American-owned and starting at just $65 a night for one person and $85 for two, including a hearty breakfast. This inn has a pool and a popular bar/restaurant; some rooms have balconies and private bath (though no air-conditioning). Tel. 011-5994-62205; fax 011-5994-62388.

* St. Lucia--Bay Gardens Hotel: At Rodney Bay--a marina complex on the northwest coast--this two-story, 53-room oasis has lots of perks, such as two pools, a whirlpool, gardens, library, restaurant and even an ice-cream parlor. Rooms are done in pastels and white wicker and are equipped with air-conditioning, TV and refrigerators. The beach and shops are a short stroll away. The rate is about $95 for a double room. Tel. (758) 452-8060; fax (758) 452-8059.

* St. Martin--La Residence Hotel: In the town of Marigot on the French side of the island, it’s a romantic property with 22 rooms; the rates are $72 (one person) to $94 (two people) a night. The in-house eatery isn’t exactly cheap, but there are plenty of budget eating options nearby. Tel. 011-590-877-037; fax 011-590-879-044.

Hevea: This colorful little wood-frame house in traditional island style (complete with gingerbread trim) is in Grand Case. Amid leafy courtyards and patio are eight rooms with plank floors and mahogany beds. Some have ceiling fans instead of air-conditioning, and most have kitchenettes. There’s a restaurant on premises and many others nearby. Rates vary, but some rooms are available for $68 to $101. Tel. 011-590-875-685; fax 011-590-878-388.

* Tobago--Richmond Great House Inn: An 18th century plantation house, full of African art, on a hill with panoramic views of forest, sea and citrus groves. A few rooms have four-poster beds; several rooms cost just $85 for one or $95 for two, including breakfast. Tel./fax (809) 660-4467.

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* Turks & Caicos--Turk’s Head Hotel: In these islands’ sleepy capital of Grand Turk, the former U.S. consulate is right across from the beach. Its antiques-appointed rooms have air-conditioning, cable TV and minibars. Standard rooms are $85 a night for one person or $120 for two. Tel. (649) 946-2466; fax (649) 946-1716.

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