A Desert Jaunt Over Dunes, Hills and Lava Beds

If Mojave National Preserve had a “Main Street,” Kelbaker Road would be it. The road is the preserve’s busiest and provides access to several of its most popular attractions, including the Kelso Depot and Kelso Dunes.

The National Park Service recently installed a large Mojave National Preserve entry sign just outside Baker on Kelbaker Road. The entry post, one of those grand granite proclamations characteristic of other Western national parks, emphasizes Kelbaker’s status as the major Mojave road.

Most preserve visitors remain in their vehicles while driving Kelbaker Road from Baker to Kelso Depot and thus miss a couple of interesting sights en route. Two of my favorites along the way are the Kelbaker Hills and the lava beds.

Kelbaker Hills

Here’s your chance to name one of the preserve’s geographic features. I call them the Kelbaker Hills because of their proximity to Kelbaker Road as well as for their location a dozen miles southeast of Baker and 25 miles northwest of Kelso; however, they don’t really have a name on the map or one in common usage. Others have suggested the “Baker Hills” due to their close-to-town position or the “Rhyolite Hills” because of their volcanic composition.

By whatever name, these hills offer a close-to-the-paved-road wilderness experience and a short (though moderately strenuous) hike.

To access the Kelbaker Hills from Baker and Interstate 15, drive 11 miles east on Kelbaker Road. Just as the road makes a pronounced bend right (south), turn left (north) on the unsigned dirt road. Drive 0.8 mile along the preserve’s signed wilderness boundary. Look east of the road for a distinct gap in the Kelbaker Hills. Parking--what there is of it--is just east off the road.

If you locate a sketchy old road extending east up the wash leading to the hills, take it; otherwise, simply walk up the wash toward the obvious gap in the hills. Your route will angle toward the base of the tallest hills and just to the left of them.

A bit more than 0.5 mile out, you’ll observe a couple of narrow ravines (favorite burro routes, judging by the tracks) that lead to the top of the hills. Climb (careful; it’s loose footing) any one of these ravines for good views of this part of the preserve.

Experienced rock-scramblers can make their way to the top of the highest hills. Those determined to make a loop hike out of this jaunt can descend a southeasterly ravine and connect with the main wash that leads back to the gap in the hills. It then returns to the trail head.

Lava beds

Another Kelbaker roadside attraction is the preserve’s northern lava beds. A wash extending alongside the lava formation gives the hiker a convenient thoroughfare as well as a close-up view of the volcanic cliff face.

This look at the lava resembles those hillside cuts made by highway builders, though it was nature, not a road crew, that revealed the lava beds. Green, gray and red lichen color the north side of the lava outcroppings.

From Baker and I-15, head 14.2 miles south on Kelbaker Road to the lava beds and an unsigned turnout on your left. The turnout is just south of the long, narrow beds and just north of a wash. (Hint: If Kelbaker Road takes you through a major gap in the lava beds, you’ve ventured about 0.4 mile too far south of the trail head for this little exploration.)

Head east on a faint but visible trail at the base of the lava beds. Marvel at the odd geology as you walk 0.6 mile to trail’s end.

Scramble to the top of the lava beds and a miniature plateau paved with a mosaic of lava talus that resembles the ruins of an ancient Roman Empire road. Make your way west over the plateau. Just short of Kelbaker Road, descend from the plateau by scrambling down the rocks to the trail head.

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Mojave Desert

WHERE: Mojave National Preserve.

DISTANCE: Kelbaker Hills ramble is 2 miles round trip with 300-foot elevation gain; Lava Beds loop is 1.2 miles round trip.

TERRAIN: Volcanic hills and rock formations.

HIGHLIGHTS: Often overlooked scenic attractions off the preserve’s main road.

FOR MORE INFORMATION: Mojave National Preserve, tel. (760) 225-8801; Mojave Desert Baker Information Center, tel. (760) 733-4040.