Fresh and Springy

Vietnamese fresh spring rolls (goi cuon) are perfect for an easy meal in warm weather. Wrapped in sheer rice “papers” rather than wonton skins, they are not fried, which makes them light and refreshing. Around lunchtime, you can see women preparing the rolls at Rainbows Deli & Bakery in Chinatown. One version is filled with shrimp, roast pork, rice noodles, shredded lettuce and Vietnamese herbs. Another features three Vietnamese pork preparations, including fine-textured pork pa^te, with mint sprigs, cilantro and cucumber slices on the side. Both types come with hoisin sauce.

Fresh pork and shrimp spring rolls, $1.75 for a package of two; spring rolls with three types of pork, $2.50 for a package of three at Rainbows Deli & Bakery, 840 N. Hill St. (behind Ai Hoa market), Los Angeles; (213) 617-7638.