Getting Stuck on Ribs

After a summer of grilling, I turn to those fall foods that are braised to deepen their flavor. That’s where short ribs fit in. As they braise in a flavorful wine sauce, they become incredibly tender and succulent.

Trimming the ribs of surface fat before they are cooked and skimming the sauce after cooking can reduce the fat content substantially. Preparing the dish ahead of time helps develop the flavor and makes skimming the fat easier, because that is best done once the dish has been refrigerated and the fat has congealed on the surface.

Serve the ribs over noodles. And pour more Merlot to go with the meal. For dessert, apples are the inspiration for the fall fruit cake. Served warm with vanilla ice cream, it’s the perfect conclusion to a fall meal.

Short Ribs Braised in Merlot

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 2 hours plus 8 hours chilling

12 short ribs (about 4 1/2 to 5 pounds total), trimmed

Coarse salt

Freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 large carrots, diced (about 1 cup)

1 large onion, diced (about 2 cups)

2 small leeks, white and light green parts thinly sliced (about 3/4 cup)

2 teaspoons sugar

2 tablespoons flour

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 1/2 cups Merlot

1 1/2 cups low-salt chicken broth

1 bay leaf

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

* Season ribs with salt and pepper. Heat oil over high heat in stove-top, oven-safe casserole large enough to hold ribs in single layer without crowding. When oil is hot, add ribs in 2 batches, searing on all sides until browned, 2 to 4 minutes per side. Use tongs to set ribs aside on platter.

* Pour off all but 1 tablespoon oil. Add carrots, onion and leeks. Cook over medium heat until browned, stirring often, about 7 minutes. Add sugar; stir until melted. Add flour and garlic. Stir well. Cook 1 minute. Return ribs and juices to pot. Add wine, broth, bay leaf and thyme. Bring to simmer on top of stove, pressing ribs down to keep them covered with liquid.

* Bake at 300 degrees, covered, until ribs are just tender but not falling apart (ribs will cook more when reheated), about 1 hour 15 minutes. Cool casserole on counter, then refrigerate overnight. Skim and discard visible fat. (Can be refrigerated 2 days.)

* To serve, reheat, covered, in 350-degree oven until just hot, about 40 minutes. Taste sauce and adjust seasonings. Serve hot over herbed egg noodles.

4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 servings: 500 calories; 355 mg sodium; 134 mg cholesterol; 28 grams fat; 9 grams carbohydrates; 45 grams protein; 0.48 gram fiber.

Herbed Egg Noodles

Active Work Time: 10 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 20 minutes

3/4 pound dry, broad egg noodles

Salt

3 tablespoons melted butter

3 tablespoons minced parsley

3 tablespoons snipped chives

Freshly ground pepper

* Cook noodles in salted water according to package directions until al dente. Drain, reserving 3 tablespoons liquid. Toss noodles with liquid, butter, parsley, chives, 3/4 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Taste and adjust seasonings. Serve hot.

4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 servings: 202 calories; 148 mg sodium; 58 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 0 carbohydrates; 12 grams protein; 0.09 gram fiber.

Fall Fruit Cake With Apples and Currants

Active Work Time: 25 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 25 minutes

This moist spice cake is just 1 1/2 inches thick, making an elegant presentation with the light coating of spiced sugar. It’s a cake that keeps perfectly for at least three days.

2 cups cake flour

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Ground allspice

3/4 teaspoon baking soda

3/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup oil

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

2 eggs, room temperature

2 large tart apples, peeled and diced into 1/3-inch pieces (about 3 cups)

1/2 cup dried currants

3 tablespoons powdered sugar

Vanilla ice cream, for serving

* Sift flour, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, 1/8 teaspoon allspice, baking soda and salt together onto piece of wax paper; set aside.

* Beat oil and granulated sugar 1 minute in large bowl of mixer. Add eggs 1 at a time, beating well between them. Put dry ingredients on top of mixture, then apples and currants. Use mixer on low speed to mix thoroughly or, alternately, fold in with rubber spatula until mixed. Transfer to greased 10-inch round springform pan. Smooth top.

* Bake at 350 degrees until cake is browned with crackly surface and toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, about 55 minutes to 1 hour. Transfer to rack and let cool slightly. Loosen sides of cake from pan with knife and carefully remove springform pan. (Can be made up to 3 days ahead and kept at room temperature, covered airtight, or frozen up to 3 months, wrapped airtight. To serve, thaw then, warm cake in 250-degree oven for 10 minutes.)

* Transfer cake from pan bottom to serving platter. Mix powdered sugar, 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon and dash allspice in small bowl. Transfer to fine sieve; press sugar through sieve to lightly cover cake. Serve warm, cut in wedges, with scoops of vanilla ice cream.

10 to 14 servings. Each of 14 servings, cake only: 398 calories; 191 mg sodium; 42 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 59 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.31 gram fiber.

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B. Ware Moss plates from the Fresco Collection, Malibu Colony.