The Return of Stroganoff

Beef Stroganoff was very popular during the 1960s and ‘70s, but then our fickle eating habits left it languishing. During the last few months, however, I’ve made the dish several times for friends and the response was enthusiastic. Some of my younger guests had never had it, and to them, it was a splendid new dish.

Serve it with egg noodles, but if you want it simple, just serve it over toast with a fresh green salad. This is a quick dish to make that can help the beginning cook. Just be sure to have your table set and wine cooled.

The best cut of beef for this dish, which is reasonably priced, is a beef tri-tip roast. Heat your oven to 200 degrees, so if your serving time is delayed, you can keep the food warm. You can also cook your noodles first and keep them in a bowl covered with a damp paper towel--this will keep them moistin the oven, and then cook the Stroganoff.

Cunningham’s newst book is “Learning to Cook With Marion Cunningham (Alfred A. Knopf, 1999). Beef Stroganoff

Active Work Time: 15 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 30 minutes

2 pounds beef tri-tip

Salt, pepper

1 pound mushrooms

3 onions

1 (16-ounce) bag egg noodles

1 tablespoon oil

2 cups beef broth

2 cups sour cream

1 tablespoon flour

* Cut beef into strips 1/2-inch wide and 2 inches long. Season both sides with salt and pepper and set aside.

* Wipe mushrooms clean with paper towel. Break off each mushroom stem and put stems in a bowl. Cut each mushroom cap into about 4 slices and add to bowl. Lightly salt mushroom pieces and toss gently so salt is distributed.

* Cut each onion in half and place cut-side down on cutting board. Cut into thin slices. Set aside.

* Add noodles to large pot of boiling salted water and cook according to package directions, 10 to 12 minutes, while you prepare the meat. If noodles are done first, drain and keep warm.

* Heat oil in large, heavy-bottomed saute pan over medium heat until, when you hold your hand 1 inch from bottom of pan, it feels hot, about 1 minute. Add onion slices and cook until soft, not dark brown, 3 or 4 minutes, stirring often. Watch so onions don’t burn. Stir in mushrooms, broth and beef. Turn heat to low and simmer until meat is tender, 5 to 10 minutes, stirring often. Test by spearing a piece and tasting it. When it is tender, taste again and lightly salt if it is needed (trust your palate.).

* Stir sour cream in small bowl with flour until it is smooth, then stir into beef mixture. Stir until blended and the sauce is all the same color and has thickened slightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Serve on top of noodles.

6 servings. Each serving: 684 calories; 430 mg sodium; 173 mg cholesterol; 28 grams fat; 69 grams carbohydrates; 40 grams protein; 1.33 grams fiber.

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Pottery ramekin and placemat from Crate & Barrel stores.