Before You Begin Painting . . .

Not a novice when it comes to painting? Here’s something we bet you didn’t know: You should never apply a primer to a porch floor. We weren’t aware of that either, but experienced professional painters are. It’s one of those secrets that ensures a paint job that looks good and won’t require attention for years.

Most pros have lots of these tricks. To uncover them, we discussed painting with pros on the job. A lot of what we learned is common knowledge. For example, surface prep is the most important part of painting.

No news there, but we did gather tricks and tool recommendations that make prep go faster.

Ever ignore the instructions on the paint can? We have, but experienced painters are more careful--they talked about the impact taking shortcuts can have on a paint job.

And finally, we also unearthed a number of pointers that just aren’t in most of the literature about exterior painting.

When you add it all up, this distilled knowledge should make a real difference the next time you paint your house.

* Cut the job down to size

Who says you have to paint the house all at once? Doing the entire job “right” can be overwhelming. Realistically assess your time and resources and commit to doing what you can without taking shortcuts.

Plenty of homeowners hire pros for just part of a house--such as the trim or the most weather-beaten side. Or divide the job into several smaller ones and do them yourself in order of need.

* Don’t work solo

Pros don’t work solo, and neither should you. Prepping and painting a house is tedious, tiring work. It’s safer, faster and more enjoyable to have someone help out. Recruit a family member or neighbor, or even hire a helper.

* Use a quality scraper

A good scraper is essential for removing unsound paint. Sandvik’s two-handed scraper is a favorite among experienced painters ([800] 828-9893). The long handle makes it easy to apply leverage, and the blades are double-edged, super-hard carbide. They stay sharp for a long time, and they’re easy to replace when they finally dull.

* Use cloth-backed paper

Medium-grit (100 to 150) sandpaper is what the pros use to scuff-sand old paint so that a fresh coat will adhere well. Sanding is also necessary to smooth, or feather, areas where old paint meets bare wood.

Instead of using paper-backed sheets of sandpaper, buy rolls of cloth-backed sandpaper--the kind used on floor-sanding machines. This material, available at most paint-supply outlets, will last longer and work better than paper-backed abrasives.

If you have a lot of sanding to do, consider using a small orbital sander for the job.

* Clean up with a shop vacuum

All of the mess caused by sanding and scraping can’t be contained by dropcloths alone. A shop vacuum is just the tool to get this grit out of gutters and off lawn, roof and porch surfaces.

* Power-wash with care

High-pressure spraying is a fast, effective way to clean surfaces before painting. And it’s just the ticket for removing chalk deposits from aluminum siding and flaky paint from masonry surfaces.

But the bullet-like spray can force water behind wood siding, creating prolonged high-moisture conditions that threaten paint adhesion. If you power-wash wood, make sure the surface is totally dry before painting.

* Attack mildew

Mildew is easy to spot: black, splotchy stains on areas that don’t see much sunlight. Kill it by sponging or spraying on a bleach solution (one part bleach to three parts water), or it will grow beneath the new paint. Then scrub the deposits off with a stiff brush dipped in soapy water and rinse.

* Etch old paint with TSP

Old paint that doesn’t need to be scraped or sanded still needs to be scrubbed with trisodium phosphate (TSP) for new paint to adhere well. After mixing according to label instructions, scrub the solution on, then rinse with water. This treatment will actually etch the old paint, providing sufficient “tooth” for good adhesion.

* Solve moisture problems

Moisture trapped in a wall or under exterior paint will cause the paint job to fail. Some moisture problems are easy to detect and solve--a leaky gutter, for example. Others are elusive, like a hidden leak in a dryer vent that drips into a wall cavity.

Either way, the rule still applies: If your last paint job bubbled and peeled in a particular area, find and fix the problem before you paint.

* Shop where the professionals do

Paint-supply guys have plenty of knowledge to share. So find a veteran behind the counter at the paint store and speak with him or her when the store isn’t packed with pros--say, midmorning.

Bring snapshots of your house, rough dimensions and notes on the condition of existing paint and surface quality. Chances are that you’ll get specific product recommendations and other valuable advice.

* Buy good paint

Opting for cheap paint is an expensive mistake. Even low-quality paints advertise a guarantee on the can, but don’t be swayed by these claims. Instead, ask your paint dealer for the best exterior paint.

You’ll pay $18 to $26 per gallon for latex (water-based) or alkyd (oil-based) formulations.

As a topcoat, the best latex paints outlast the best alkyds because of greater flexibility and permeability. Oil-based paints still have superior penetrating capability, however, and this makes them a smart choice when painting over chalky substrates or bare wood.

* Use the right primer

An alkyd primer has a longer drying time than a latex primer, and alkyd resins can penetrate deeper. You’ll need this extra penetrating power and bonding strength when priming bare wood and powdery surfaces.

It’s fine to apply a latex or acrylic topcoat over an oil-based primer; in fact, many pros swear by this combination.

* Sills need lots of special attention

Weathering effects increase as you move from vertical surfaces to horizontal ones. That’s why the paint on window and door sills suffers the most significant deterioration.

Give these areas extra attention when prepping and painting. Remove all loose paint, fill cracks with an exterior filler and caulk all seams. Then protect each sill with an extra coat of paint.

* Never prime the porch

Enamels for the porch floor are self-priming. Following the usual primer/topcoat strategy on a wood porch will almost always result in early paint failure. To paint a porch, use porch floor paint and follow the instructions on the can.

* Use lots of dropcloths

Dropcloths offer cheap, excellent insurance and are much better than bedsheets at catching drips and spills. They have the absorbency to soak up paint, the weight to stay down in a breeze and the durability to take heavy-duty use without tearing.

They don’t cost much and are essential if you want to spend your time painting instead of mopping up spills.

* Two ladders are better than one

You can’t tackle an exterior paint job with a single ladder. With two ladders, you and your partner can stay busy.

Another option is to set up a platform between a pair of ladders with ladder jacks and a scaffolding plank (buy or rent these items). This will save time and aching arches when you have a large expanse of wall to paint or prep.

A ladder stabilizer--a broad-armed attachment that boosts stability--is a good accessory. If you need to work on the roof to paint dormers, you’ll need to secure your ladder with ladder hooks. Or, as many pros do, build a simple roof ladder.

* Buy expensive brushes

You get what you pay for when buying a brush. A quality brush makes it easier to apply paint evenly and accurately.

Look for bristles that are split at their ends. This “flagging” enables the brush to carry more paint and to release it smoothly.

Use a synthetic brush for acrylic paint, and a natural-bristle brush for alkyds. The best natural-bristle brushes are usually marked “China Bristle” or “genuine hog bristle.”

Most painters like to use a 2-inch or a 2 1/2-inch brush for detail painting, and a 4-inch or 4 1/2-inch brush for painting large flat areas such as siding or soffits.

* Low wires can kill

The high-voltage lines entering your house pose a serious electrocution threat to anyone working nearby, especially if insulation around the wiring has deteriorated.

If you’re going to be painting close to electrical wiring, contact Southern California Edison ([800] 684-8123). The company will send a technician to inspect entrance wiring and advise you on safety procedures.

In some cases, power can be turned off or temporary insulation can be installed until you’ve finished painting.

* Mother Nature rules

Pro painters are seasoned fans of the Weather Channel, and for good reason. They know that a thunderstorm or a sudden drop in temperature can wreak havoc on a paint job.

Don’t paint when the forecast calls for wet or cold weather. Remember, most exterior paints should not be applied in temperatures below 50 F.

Oil paints should never be applied to damp surfaces, but acrylic paints can be in some cases.

Read the fine print on the paint can, and don’t cheat on the manufacturer’s application requirements.

* Don’t let the sun ruin your hard work

Professional painters in sunny Orange County often work from dawn until 10 a.m. or so, quitting when the sun overheats the substrate. If a surface is too hot to touch comfortably, don’t paint it.

Applying paint on a hot surface can result in poor paint adhesion and early paint failure. To avoid this problem, paint parts of the house before or after they’ve received their major daily dose of sun.

Reprinted from the pages of Today’s Homeowner magazine. To receive more expert advice on improving your home, call (800) 456-6369 or visit the Web site at https://www.todayshomeowner.com.