Jimmy’s, the Next Generation: New Look, Updated Menu

Jimmy’s, the Beverly Hills restaurant that was a fixture on South Moreno Drive for 21 years, is back. But in a different configuration. After Anne and Jimmy Murphy decided to close the restaurant earlier this year, their three children--Sean, Jamie and Geraldine--came to their parents and proposed reopening with the three siblings working together. To his credit, their father listened. Jimmy’s II debuts as a subtle reworking of the Beverly Hills power spot.

For the first time, you can see in from the street, which makes the locale all the more inviting, especially at lunch. They’ve knocked a couple of walls down to open up the space, and created a garden room decorated with Moroccan lanterns.

The restaurant feels more casual than it used to be. Now the crowd is a lively mix of the old faithful and a younger generation--nice to see in age-segregated L.A. On a Saturday night, the main dining room is a sea of festive, large tables with smaller tables around the perimeter. Those at the table next to us had their standing reservation at Spago bumped because of a private party there and ended up discovering the new Jimmy’s. Since half the staff once worked at Spago, where both Sean and Jamie were managers, they felt right at home.

Gone is the dated continental cuisine of the original Jimmy’s. In its place, contemporary American fare from Neal Fraser (Boxer, Rix) and Chris Goosen, Fraser’s sous-chef at Rix. The wine list is savvier, too, put together by Shelby Ledgerwood, who trained with sommelier Michael Bonaccorsi at Spago Beverly Hills.

What’s to eat? A graceful pureed pumpkin soup garnished with toasted pumpkin seeds, or a warm blue cheese tart with endive and candied walnuts in a rich, crumbly crust. Loin of white tail venison comes with an apple chestnut compote and a swirl of juniper sauce. The Indian chicken is beautifully cooked and gently spiced, too gently for my taste. But the hot chocolate fudge cake couldn’t be more intensely chocolaty, and offers a jolt of sugar as potent as any caffeine.

The Spago aficionados raved about their dinner. One woman who billed herself as a rack-of-lamb connoisseur said she couldn’t wait to come back and eat Jimmy’s rack of lamb all over again. Hmm. Maybe it’s a good thing to try a new restaurant every once in a while.

BE THERE

Jimmy’s II, 201 S. Moreno Drive, Beverly Hills. (310) 552-2394. Open for lunch Monday through Friday, for dinner Monday through Saturday. Major credit cards accepted. Full bar. Dinner appetizers $7 to $18; entrees $17 to $30. Valet parking.