Apples and Honey Day : The Jewish New Year is a time for baking sweet things

Although Passover can be a little restrictive for a baker, relying as it does on matzo and the absence of leavening, Rosh Hashanah is full of possibilities. The Jewish New Year is autumnal baking’s finest hour.

Apple recipes always seem welcome at Rosh Hashanah. In fact, it is usually more a case of which one and how many to offer: a homey apple cake, an elegant apple tart or something small and buttery, such as apple squares. Honey is another popular ingredient: Can you imagine the New Year without a honey cake?

So many choices, so many tastes. How to narrow it down?

My strategy over the years has been to refine the classic favorites, such as Definitive Honey Cake, while creating some new things as well, such as the flamboyant Apple Strudel in the Round.

When baking a variety of celebratory sweets, the best advice is always to think about presenting a balance, giving guests the option of small and large, nutty or not, fruity or simple and fancy or unadorned.

Though some of these recipes are a little different from what you may have served in the past, give them a try. Next year, when you make them again, they will graduate from simply new to being a new tradition, a perfect way to usher in Rosh Hashanah.

Apple Challah

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 30 minutes plus 1 hour 30 minutes standing time

Get this recipe its own Web site! What could make be more appealing: a rich challah, laced with honey and studded with chunks of apples. Serve this after holiday services or to break the fast of Yom Kippur. Leftovers make terrific “apple French toast.”

1 cup warm water

1 cup plus 1 teaspoon sugar

2 (1/4-ounce) packets dry yeast

3 eggs, room temperature

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

2 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 1/4 teaspoons cinnamon

1/2 cup oil or melted butter

2 1/2 cups bread flour

2 1/2 to 3 cups unbleached all purpose flour, plus more for kneading

3 cups coarsely chopped apples, peeled or not (1/2-inch dice)

1 egg yolk

Nonstick cooking spray

Coarse sugar for sprinkling (about 2 to 3 tablespoons) or granulated sugar

* Stir together water, 1 teaspoon sugar and yeast in large mixing bowl. Let stand 2 to 3 minutes to dissolve yeast. Briskly stir in 1/2 cup sugar, 2 eggs, vanilla, salt, 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon and oil. Combine flours and stir in enough to form stiff dough. Add in additional flour as needed and knead 8 to 10 minutes to make smooth dough.

* Place in lightly greased bowl and insert bowl in large plastic bag and loosely seal, or cover lightly with towel, and set in warm place. Rest until doubled in size, 45 minutes to 1 hour.

* Meanwhile, place diced apples in medium bowl and toss with 1/2 cup sugar and 1 teaspoon cinnamon. Prepare egg wash by whisking together remaining whole egg and yolk.

* Spray 12x5-inch loaf pan generously with nonstick cooking spray. If you do not have big enough loaf pan, use 2 9x5-inch loaf pans.

* Turn dough onto lightly floured board. Roll or pat out into large round (about 10 inches across). Press in half of apples. Fold in outer edges or corners of dough over apples (any way you can) and press to seal. Flatten dough slightly and press on remaining apples, folding dough over apples, pressing in any apples that may pop out (just stick them on top of the dough later on). Don’t worry if apples and sugar start oozing out--it works out in the end. Rest dough 5 minutes on work surface.

* Using sharp knife, cut into uneven chunks--about 16 pieces in all. Lay pieces of apple-filled dough in prepared pan, lining bottom first, then gently laying remaining pieces on top, mixing angles of cut chunks. Top with any escaped apple pieces.

* Spray dough with light coating of nonstick cooking spray. Place pan(s) in large plastic bag and seal loosely or cover with towel and set in warm place. Let rise until puffy and almost flush with top of pan, 45 to 90 minutes, depending on temperature.

* Remove from bag and dab on egg wash as thoroughly and generously as possible (since dough is not smooth surface, you have to drizzle and dab on glaze, rather than paint it on). Sprinkle with coarse sugar.

* Bake at 350 degrees until well browned, 50 to 55 minutes. Cool in pan 10 minutes before removing and cooling on rack. Pull apart bread to serve or cut into slices.

1 large or 2 smaller loaves, 16 to 18 servings. Each of 18 servings: 262 calories; 392 mg sodium; 64 mg cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 44 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 0.23 gram fiber.

Definitive Honey Cake

Active Work Time: 25 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 2 hours

I must have a zillion honey cake recipes, but this is one that breaks the mold. It makes even a Jewish great-grandmother concede that it doesn’t get much better than this: not too spicy and incredibly moist, it’s a winner.

3 1/2 cups flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

4 teaspoons cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

1 cup oil

1 cup honey

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

1/2 cup brown sugar, lightly packed

3 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup warm coffee

1/2 cup orange juice

Nonstick cooking spray for greasing

1/2 cup sliced almonds

* Whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, cloves and allspice in large bowl. Make well in center and stir in oil, honey, granulated and brown sugars, eggs, vanilla, coffee and orange juice. Using strong whisk (or electric mixer on slow speed), combine ingredients thoroughly to make thick but pourable batter, making sure that ingredients are all blended and not stuck to bottom.

* Spoon or pour batter into well-greased 9- or 10-inch tube or angel food cake pan or 2 9x5-inch loaf pans. Scatter almonds over top. Place cake on baking sheet and bake at 350 degrees until cake springs back when gently pressed with fingertips, 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes for larger cake, 45 to 55 minutes for loaf pans. Cool 10 minutes before unmolding from pan.

12 to 16 servings. Each of 16 servings: 419 calories; 170 mg sodium; 40 mg cholesterol; 18grams fat; 64 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.19 gram fiber.

Apple Strudel in the Round

Active Work Time: 35 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 2 hours

If you’re an apple dessert fan but are intimidated by strudel, this is just the ticket. This is a strudel in the round. It’s easy to assemble, using prepared filo sheets. And it is extra easy to cut; the rounded shape makes for attractive, apple-stuffed wedges.

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons cinnamon

12 sheets filo

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter or margarine, melted

10 to 12 apples (2 1/2 to 3 pounds), peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick

Juice of 1/2 lemon

1/4 cup golden raisins, plumped in 1/2 cup hot water and drained

1/2 cup sour cherries, pitted and drained if packed in juice

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 tablespoon flour

Powdered sugar for dusting

* Mix together 2 tablespoons sugar and 1 teaspoon cinnamon. Set aside.

* Lay out filo sheets and cover with lightly damp towel. Brush bottom of 10-inch springform pan with melted butter. Brush 1 sheet of filo with butter, sprinkle with some of cinnamon-sugar mixture and press into pan, allowing sides to drape over. Repeat with 4 more sheets.

* Toss apples with remaining 1/2 cup sugar, lemon juice, raisins, cherries, remaining 1 teaspoon cinnamon, cornstarch and flour. Spoon apples into springform pan and arrange so fruit filling is flush with top of pan. Pat filling down slightly. There should be enough apples to mound slightly over top of springform pan. Fold overlapping ends of filo over apples.

* Brush another filo sheet with melted butter, sprinkle with cinnamon-sugar and lay buttered side up on top of apples. Repeat with 1 more sheet. Fold in excess. Cut remaining sheets into 3 circles exactly size of pan. Brush each with butter and gently place on top of apples. (Top layer should have been brushed with melted butter as well so top will brown). Make small cuts in pastry through to apples to allow steam to escape.

* Place strudel on baking sheet to catch any drippings and set on lowest rack of 375-degree oven. Immediately reduce heat to 350 degrees and bake until pastry puffs up and apples begin to give off juices, 55 minutes to 1 hour. Cover loosely with foil if it starts to get too brown.

8 to 10 servings. Each of 10 servings: 304 calories; 185 mg sodium; 25 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 55 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 1.12 grams fiber.

Two-Toned Honey Chocolate Marble Cake

Active Work Time: 45 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 2 hours 15 minutes

I recommend Scharffen Berger semi-sweet chocolate because of its clarity of taste and smooth melting qualities. It is available in fine food stores or by calling Scharffen Berger, (800) 930-4528.

HONEY CAKE BATTER

1 3/4 cups flour

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

1/2 cup oil

1/2 cup honey

3/4 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup brown sugar, lightly packed

2 eggs

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 cup tea

1/4 cup orange juice

* In large bowl, combine flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, cloves and allspice. Stir with whisk, then make well in center and stir in oil, honey, granulated and brown sugars, eggs, vanilla, tea and orange juice. Stir well to make smooth batter. Set aside.

CHOCOLATE BATTER

1 1/2 cups flour

1/3 cup cocoa, sifted

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup brown sugar, lightly packed

1/2 cup oil

2 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup flat cola-flavored soft drink

* In large bowl, combine flour, cocoa, salt, baking soda and baking powder. Make well in center and whisk in granulated and brown sugars, oil, eggs, vanilla and cola. Blend well to make smooth batter.

ASSEMBLY

1/2 cup semi-sweet chocolate, grated

Powdered sugar, optional

* Pour Honey Cake Batter into well-greased 9- or 10-inch tube pan. Pour Chocolate Batter on top. Place on baking sheet and bake at 350 degrees until cake springs back when gently touched, 55 minutes to 1 hour 5 minutes.

* Cool 10 minutes, then unmold and place on serving platter. While cake is still warm, sprinkle on grated chocolate and allow to melt. If you like, chill cake to set chocolate and then dust with powdered sugar.

12 to 16 servings. Each of 16 servings: 365 calories; 174 mg sodium; 53 mg cholesterol; 16 grams fat; 56 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.15 gram fiber.

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Place mats and plate from Bloomingdale’s.

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Goldman is author of “A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking” (Doubleday, $25.)