Summer Snacking Can Be Peachy--and Low in Fat and Calories

Of all the wonderful reasons to celebrate the end of winter and the arrival of summer, the availability of fresh fruit is among the best. Peaches, in particular, just seem to smell and taste like summer.

Domestic peaches are in the market from April through October, but the biggest, best, juiciest peaches arrive in June, July and August. California is the largest producer among the 30 or so states where peaches are grown commercially.

Peaches don’t get any sweeter after they are harvested, but they will become softer and juicier as they mature. That’s why it’s best to buy them in season, when they have been allowed to ripen longer on the tree.

Make sure the skin has a yellow or warm creamy background color. The amount of pink or red “blush” on the surface differs from one variety to another and is not usually a good indicator of ripeness. However, if a peach has some green undertones, it was probably picked too soon and will not be sweet. Look for plump, medium- to large-sized peaches with unwrinkled skins.

Unfortunately, most commercial peaches are picked when they are mature but not fully ripe so that they can survive shipping. Farmers markets and roadside stands often offer the ripest, sweetest peaches you have ever tasted. That’s probably also the only place where you can still find fuzzy peaches.

Did you ever wonder why peaches aren’t fuzzy anymore? It’s because people didn’t seem to like the fuzz, so commercial growers developed a mechanical harvester that removes most of it.

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At the supermarket, select a peach that is firm but not hard and will yield slightly to pressure along the seam. If you keep peaches like these in a paper bag at room temperature for a few days, they will soften, but check them regularly so they don’t overripen. Peaches are ready to eat when they give off a sweet aroma and are soft to the touch.

Ripe peaches will keep in the refrigerator crisper for three to five days. Don’t buy peaches that already are dark, mushy or bruised because they are beginning to spoil. Tan circles or spots on the skin are the early warning signs of decay.

Like most fruits, peaches are low in calories and fat (less than 40 calories for an average peach). They have a reasonable amount of beta carotene and vitamin C, so they fit well into a healthy diet.

There are a number of ways to prepare peaches without turning them into a high-calorie dessert. If you want to peel a peach, submerge it in boiling water for 30 seconds, remove with a slotted spoon and then submerge it in cold water. The skin will slip right off.

Here are some ways to prepare peaches:

* Baking. Place peeled, halved, pitted peaches cut-side up in a baking pan; brush with lemon, orange or other citrus juices to keep them from turning brown and to add flavor.

At this point, you can let your imagination run wild. Sprinkle the peaches with brown sugar and your favorite spices (try cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, cloves), stuff them with a raisin-nut mixture, or just leave them plain. Bake in a 325-degree oven until hot and tender (about 25 minutes).

* Grilling. Follow the directions for baking, but place under the broiler or on the grill (six to eight minutes). Try this outside on the barbecue and serve as a side dish with meat or fish.

* Poaching. Put peach halves, quarters or slices in a pot of simmering fruit juice or wine, and cook until tender (three to seven minutes).

* Pureeing. Saute some onions in defatted chicken broth and wine. Add chopped peaches and cook until tender. Lightly puree the mixture so that there are still a few chunks, and serve over poultry.

* Peach shakes. Take one large peach, peel, pit and quarter it. Add a half-cup of nonfat vanilla yogurt, a teaspoon of honey, a pinch of cinnamon and one ice cube. Put all the ingredients in a blender and process.

* Drying. Peaches can be dried just like apples, bananas and other fruit. Once dried, they can be used in muffins, pancakes, breads, even mixed into a turkey meatloaf. The sky’s the limit.

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Here’s a great low-fat recipe for peach-apricot cobbler (with a surprise secret ingredient) from the “Simply Healthy Lowfat Cookbook” (Rebus, 1995).

PEACH-APRICOT COBBLER

Filling:

3/4 cup apricot nectar

1/4 cup apricot all-fruit spread

3 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 to 1.2 pounds peaches, cut

into thin wedges

1 1/2 cups dried apricot halves,

snipped into thirds

1 cup shredded carrots (the

secret ingredient)

Topping:

1 1/2 cups flour

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon

sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons cold unsalted

butter, cut into small pieces

3/4 cup plain low-fat yogurt

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

1 teaspoon milk

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Make the filling first.

In a medium bowl, whisk the apricot nectar, apricot all-fruit spread, sugar, lemon juice and vanilla until blended. Add the peaches, dried apricots and carrots, and toss to coat well. Pour the filling into a 9 1/2-inch deep-dish pie plate and cover with foil. Place on a baking sheet to catch spillovers, and bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until the fruit starts to become tender.

Now make the biscuit topping.

In a medium bowl, stir together the flour, 1 tablespoon of the sugar, the baking powder, baking soda and salt. Cut in the butter with a pastry blender or your fingers until the mixture forms fine crumbs. Stir in the yogurt with a fork just until a dough forms. Lightly dust a work surface with flour. Turn out the dough onto the surface and knead it 10 to 12 times. Pat or roll the dough into a rough 9-inch circle, about 1/2-inch thick. Place the dough on top of the hot fruit and cut four slashes in the top to let the steam escape.

In a small bowl or cup, mix the remaining 1 teaspoon sugar with the nutmeg. Brush the dough with the milk and sprinkle with the sugar-nutmeg mixture. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes longer, or until the crust is browned and the fruit is bubbly.

Makes 8 servings, each of which has 294 calories, 5.1 grams of fat, 20 milligrams of vitamin C and 132 milligrams of calcium.

Dr. Sheldon Margen is a professor of public health at UC Berkeley; Dale A. Ogar is managing editor of the UC Berkeley Wellness Letter. They are the authors of several books, including “The Wellness Encyclopedia of Food and Nutrition.” Their column runs every Monday. Send questions to Dale Ogar, School of Public Health, UC Berkeley, CA 94720-7360, or daogar@uclink4.berkeley.edu.