The British Aisles
Donegal tweeds, Scottish tartans, mod suits, jaunty long scarves and Clarks shoes--the British Isles were an inspiration for several of the fall 2000 menswear collections shown here since Thursday by both newcomers and veteran designers.
Jose Levy’s show on Sunday for Holland & Holland of London re-created a nostalgic scene of Brits on safari in Africa. But instead of showing his clothes on the runway, Levy orchestrated a tea party for guests who wandered around the poorly lit tent, gawking at models posed in front of projections of African safari scenes.
“I feel like I’m at the Museum of Natural History,” one woman quipped. “I think I just stepped on a tea sandwich,” said another guest.
The collection rose above the bizarre setting, with notable offerings of textured wool pants in classic shapes and rich olive and orange and even a pair of knee-length britches.
Sting’s “An Englishman in New York” set the tone for the BCBG Max Azria Friday show, which featured easy-fit, flat-front tweed trousers, attractive pony-hair square-toed shoes, turtleneck sweaters and suede button-down shirts in colors like burlap, oatmeal, cognac, cola and twine.
Azria’s English muse must be a young lad, because the Los Angeles-based designer offered some edgy looks as well: suede drawstring pants and a three-button jacket of bronze leather with an antique finish.
Sandy Dalal on Thursday showed paisley shirts and a red, navy and green-striped slim suit that looked positively mod. Color was also important at Gene Meyer, where U-neck sweater-vests and mohair turtlenecks were awash with pumpkin-and-peacock stripes, and shirts were patterned with playful polka dots.
Plaid popped up in nearly every show, but Joseph Abboud’s tartan velvet suits were the standout. For his more conservative customers, like Bryant Gumbel and Luther Vandross, who were at the Saturday show, Abboud presented the softly structured single and double-breasted suits he is known for, offered for fall in plush chenille and nubby wool. (And despite rumors to the contrary, Abboud said after the show that he is not ready to sell his company.)
Tommy Hilfiger, who announced last week he is closing his two flagship stores, including the one in Beverly Hills, due to lagging sales, seemed to consciously present more subdued, wearable looks than in past seasons. The designer drew on his Scottish heritage (yes, he has one), lining blazers with plaid, color-blocking tartans on trousers (each leg with a different plaid), and bonding leather and tartan to create an innovative jacket.
DKNY was all over the map, proving that Donna Karan’s theme of “constructive energy” does not a collection make. With looks ranging from khaki gabardine riding jackets to lacquered leather peacoats and black-mohair to brown-tweed suits, the collection seemed to lack focus.
When it came to more tailored looks, Michele Savoia was a surprise hit, drawing a standing ovation for his Rat Pack- and Wise Guy-inspired suits. The designer is reportedly in talks to join Valentino.
The most anticipated collection of the week was the debut of John Varvatos, who counts as mentors both Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein. Varvatos’ high-water pants, which hit models mid-calf, were downright ridiculous, but he made up for it with impeccably tailored herringbone coats and jackets. “He’s the one to watch,” said Bloomingdale’s senior vice president Kal Ruttenstein.
British tailor Ozwald Boeteng introduced his Bespoke Couture collection in America for the first time Thursday, and although his jewel-toned suits in shades of sapphire and purple probably are not every man’s cup of tea, silk or cotton shirts in the same colors could perk up a conservative gray-flannel suit. Boeteng updated his classic silhouettes with Velcro closures and contrasting piping running down the full length of the sleeves on some jackets.
Another newcomer was Everett Hall. The Washington, D.C.-based tailor, who dresses luminaries like Nelson Mandela, presented a collection with variety (Nehru jackets, four-button blazers with wide collars, etc.) without crossing into the realm of the too-trendy.
For Nautica, David Chu showed more of what America likes to wear: casual cargo pants, military-inspired peacoats and easy-fit suits in olive and charcoal-gray wool. As much as fashion editors pooh-pooh labels like Nautica for being predictable from one season to the next, the brand continues to make millions every year. Bottom line: Someone’s wearing it.
The cargo pants and zip-front jackets that comprised L.A. brand BC Ethic’s first turn on the catwalk looked stale.
“I expected more from these guys,” said Tom Julian, a trend analyst with the New York-based Fallon McElligott agency. Perhaps designer Ty Bowers should have stuck to the retro-print shirts that have filled the company’s coffers for the past eight years.
R. Scott French’s casual looks were more inventive: easygoing denim trousers, color-blocked sweaters and tux pants with camouflage-print stripes running down the sides of the legs, all paired with Clarks’ Desert Treks.
The audience at Sean “Puffy” Combs’ Sean John show would probably disagree. The rapper’s over-the-top mink-trimmed and studded jeans, denim-and-leather flight suits and Fred Leighton diamond-decked models were the most exciting thing to hit the runway all week.
Combs knew many in the star-studded audience (including Missy Elliott, Lil’ Kim, Tommy Hilfiger, Peggy Lipton, John Singleton, Patrick Ewing and music mogul Russell Simmons) had turned out not to look at clothes, but to be entertained. He did not disappoint, sending models in fur coats of linebacker dimensions down the runway to music from “2001” and “The Godfather,” the Doors and Sinatra.
As with a good concert, nobody wanted it to end.
Booth Moore can be reached at booth.moore@latimes.com.
