Shrimp May Be Tiny in Size, but They’re Big in Versatility

In last week’s column we talked about shellfish in general; today we focus on shrimp.

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Shrimp, it turns out, is the second most popular fish (actually seafood) in the United States, right behind canned tuna. (It seems like a big epicurean leap from tuna fish sandwiches to scampi, but that’s what the marketing folks tell us.)

Although there are probably hundreds of species of shrimp, the most common varieties in the U.S. fall into two categories: white and brown. White shrimp are milder in flavor because brown shrimp feed on algae and may pick up an iodine taste. But once they are shelled and cooked, all shrimp end up pale pink.

Because Californians are oh-so trendy and sophisticated, we refer to large shrimp as “prawns.” In many countries, all shrimp are called “prawns.” But in most places in the U.S. they are just called “shrimp” and are usually labeled “tiny,” “medium,” “large,” “jumbo” or “colossal,” according to how many of them it takes to make a pound.

The biggest ones are the best bargain (even though they are more expensive per pound) because you get more shrimp and far less shell. The bargain factor actually seems to hold true even if you are buying shelled shrimp.

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Shrimp are usually frozen as soon as they are caught, after which they are thawed and put on display in the market. Although this prevents spoilage, it is becoming more and more common to see markets advertising shrimp that have never been frozen. Either way, shrimp must be kept very, very cold and should be used within a day or two of purchase. If you try to refreeze shrimp that have been thawed, they will end up mushy and tasteless.

Make sure the shells are shiny and translucent, without many black spots. Sulfites are sometimes added to keep the shrimp from becoming discolored, but if this is the case, the shrimp should carry a warning label for the protection of people who are particularly sensitive to sulfites.

Make sure the shrimp smell fresh and not, well, fishy. If they smell like ammonia, go to another fish market.

The head of the shrimp contains nearly all its vital organs (even the digestive system) but, fortunately for those of us who don’t want to know exactly what our food looks like in its wild state, by the time most shrimp get to market somebody has cut their little heads off. Otherwise, the shrimp deteriorate very quickly.

The “vein” that runs down the top side is actually a tiny intestinal tube. You don’t have to remove it because cooking will kill any bacteria in it, but if it is left in big shrimp, you may feel some grit.

Some people feel that cooking shrimp in the shell adds to the flavor, but often it is easier to remove the shell and vein beforehand (although the shell is indigestible and, if you eat it, will just pass through your system).

Here’s how you do it: Take a sharp knife and make a shallow cut down the outer curved side. Pull off the shell and legs. You can remove the tail portion or leave it on for a handle. Use the knife tip to pick out the vein while you run it under cold water.

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Health-conscious consumers have shied away from shrimp in recent years because of the cholesterol content (195 milligrams per 3.5-ounce serving). However, shrimp have almost no fat, and since it seems to be saturated fat more than dietary cholesterol that raises blood cholesterol, you don’t need to avoid shrimp, just eat it in moderation.

In the mid-’90s, researchers from Rockefeller University fed enormous amounts of shrimp to people with low cholesterol levels and found that there was almost no effect. Just don’t sabotage the shrimp with fatty sauces, bread coating and deep frying.

Shrimp are incredibly versatile and easy to prepare. Try just rinsing them off and steaming or poaching them in a boiling mixture of lemon juice, herbs and spices.

Some people also like to add beer for flavor. Medium shrimp take about two minutes to cook; large prawns can take up to four minutes.

Here’s a flavorful recipe from the “Simply Healthy Lowfat Cookbook” (Rebus, 1995).

SHRIMP, GREEN PEPPER AND SWEET POTATO STEW

2 1/2 teaspoons cumin

3/4 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

3/4 pound medium shrimp

(shelled, deveined and cut into 1-inch pieces)

1 1/2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks

3/4 cup canned chicken broth

diluted with 3/4 cup water

1 large onion, chopped

3 garlic cloves, crushed through a press

1 large green bell pepper, diced

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

In a small bowl or cup, combine the cumin, coriander, ginger, black pepper and cayenne.

In a medium bowl, toss the shrimp with 1 teaspoon of the spice mixture.

Cover and let stand at room temperature while you simmer the soup and sweet potatoes.

In a deep skillet, combine the remaining spice mixture, the sweet potatoes, diluted chicken broth, onion and garlic.

Cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender (about 15-20 minutes).

Remove 1 cup of the sweet potatoes to a bowl and mash. Stir the mashed potatoes back into the stew. Add the shrimp and bell pepper, cover and cook, stirring once, until the shrimp are just cooked through (2 to 3 minutes). Stir in the lemon juice and serve hot.

Makes 4 servings, each of which contains 247 calories, 2.2 grams of fat (0.3 grams saturated fat), 105 mg of cholesterol, 308 mg sodium, 15 mg beta carotene, 58 mg vitamin C, 96 mg calcium and 3.6 mg iron.

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Dr. Sheldon Margen is professor of public health at UC Berkeley; Dale A. Ogar is managing editor of the UC Berkeley Wellness Letter. They are the authors of several books, including “The Wellness Encyclopedia of Food and Nutrition.” Send questions to Dale Ogar, School of Public Health, UC Berkeley, CA 94720-7360, or e-mail daogar@uclink4.berkeley.edu.