Jil Sander Bids Auf Wiedersehen to Her Line

On Thursday Jil Sander presented her last signature collection at her Piazza Castello showroom here. The line that carries her name will continue without Sander, who resigned as chairman of her company last month, reportedly because of differences with her firm’s new owners, the Prada Group.

Sander, whose name is now owned by the Prada Group, opted for a more intimate setting without a formal runway for her final collection.

After the presentation, Sander, in a slim black suit and man-styled shoes, would not comment on her future, though speculation has it that she may seek to buy back her fashion house or that a reconciliation with the company could occur. But it is not clear whether Patrizio Bertelli, the Prada Group’s chief, is interested in either.

All week, Sander’s show has been bruited among the fashion throng as the must-see collection because of her exit. Unfortunately, several hundred journalists and others were locked out of the presentation because Sander preferred to keep it to two groups of 50 guests.

Her line is being shown by appointment only at her showroom here.

Still, viewing the clothes on hangers doesn’t compare to seeing Sander’s fine tailoring and minimalist approach to design set off by the way her clothes move fluidly and hug the bodies of models.

The collection was pure Sander: Models strolled freely in femininely tailored, monochromatic looks in white, black or gray. The line showed off new lengths--slightly below the knee for skirts and dresses, at the knee for shorts and many wide-legged pant skirts.

Her jackets and coats had slim silhouettes. Both came in flannel and lightweight tweeds and looked pretty when worn with pleated white skirts. Several coats were worn with matching slim trousers looking almost like leather. They were teamed with white cotton turtlenecks with the look and feel of cashmere.

Airy, light skirts were accordion pleated or softly gathered in cotton, organza, silk or tulle.

Black organza and tulle dresses, several double layered with flouncy hems, had an asymmetric neckline. Pants were mostly slim and worn with crisp cuffed white shirts with high stiff collars and tailored cardigans.

The colors were soft shades of mauve, beige, camel and iridescent orange. And, there was plenty of black and white. Sander’s tailoring could be seen in supple leather coats lined with cashmere.

She splashed paper-plate sized polka dots or spheres by sculptor Tom Bell on dresses, skirts, shirts and shorts. The front of a black skirt, for example, had three spheres lined up diagonally while the backside had one sphere high on the right side.

After the show, Sander was greeted with applause as she took her bow. Sander accepted hugs, handshakes and congratulations from many who were brought to tears knowing this was her last signature collection.

When asked about her future, Sander politely said she couldn’t comment specifically. “I always believe in good, positive things. That’s what life is teaching me,” she said. As for her program notes, which ended with “Thank you and auf Wiedersehen!” Sander explained: “Auf Wiedersehen doesn’t mean goodbye. It means ‘I’ll see you again.’ ”

With that, she was whisked backstage by her publicist to prepare for the second show. And on the 50 allotted seats ushers placed program notes that read: “Chin up, shoulders back, look forward.”

Like her collection, the simple message was pure Sander.