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Same Old Stuffy Wardrobe Has Him Fit to Be Tied

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Dear Fashion Police: I am in my mid-40s, 6 feet tall, trim, and am a pretty button-down, Ralph Lauren kind of guy. I wear a tie to work, even though most of my male co-workers don’t. I want to spruce up my office wardrobe, but first things first: What can I do for a basic casual-but-spiffy out-on-the-town look? A blue blazer with jeans seems so dated. I thought about a black cashmere sport coat with a white shirt and khakis, but I’ve seen that look on so many other guys, it too seems dated. Some friends have ordered me to buy a black leather jacket, but I’ve always felt more comfortable in a tan suede jacket. Yet I know I need to break out of that rut. Please help me cut a more dashing path when I’m at a nice restaurant, the theater--or even a dance club!

--RUT MAN

Dear Rut: We know your kind, pal. You wear a nice button-down shirt and tie at work, then on the weekends you wear a nice button-down shirt . . . without the tie. Maybe a polo shirt if you’re really feeling madcap.

Don’t worry. You’re not alone. Many men suffer from the same symptoms of wardrobe monotony.

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First of all, don’t even think of putting on those button-down shirts after Friday at 6 p.m., unless you have a funeral, wedding or a bar mitzvah to go to.

We know it’s tempting because you don’t have to think about it, but true fashion means having to think. At least a little bit.

Start to build up a bank of weekend wear. Here are our suggestions for some items that are different from what you’re wearing now but low on the scale of outrageousness. We don’t want to scare you back into those shirts.

* A V-neck sweater with a white T-shirt underneath. We happen to love this look, and it flatters a lot of men. You can wear it with jeans, khakis or pleated pants. Alternatives include crew neck and roll neck sweaters.

* A turtleneck sweater. You may not like this at first, but it’s a classic style that works with or without a jacket. Go for black or dark, muted colors such as plum, olive or burgundy (black is our favorite, however).

* Cool sport shirts. Look for shirts in linen or linen blends, textured cotton, silk or silk blends. Don’t choose button-down collars; they’re too stiff. Do go for colors such as sapphire, honey, cranberry--whatever flatters you. Also try subtle patterns and textures. The neck can be buttoned up or left open; if open, adding a white T-shirt is OK.

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* Pleated pants. We’re not talking about the kind of pants you probably wear to work. Look for looser, slightly baggier styles in black or medium to dark shades of tan, brown or olive. Cotton or wool will work, and a little texture in the fabric is fine. Cuff them.

* Jackets. Stay away from those generic blue blazers. Instead, look for sport coats cut a little fuller with no vent in back.

Your friends are right about that black leather jacket. It looks good with almost anything and will last you years if you buy good quality and take care of it. Not that we have anything against suede, but it’s harder to care for and doesn’t hold up as well over the years. Besides, black leather is perpetually cool. If a bomber jacket isn’t your style, go for another cut that better suits you.

* Shoes. Lose the loafers or the deck shoes or whatever it is you probably have and get some monk straps or casual oxfords.

Start here, and pretty soon you’ll be confident enough to add some pizazz to your work wardrobe. Then there will be no stopping you.

*

Dear Fashion Police: I could use some advice on what to wear if you’re the mother of the bride or the groom. The traditional attire--the two-piece suit--just does not inspire me. I like to wear long silk dresses with all the trimmings. Also, can one wear a long a shawl (pashmina) during the warm season? Please help; otherwise, I might have to get out my wool socks and Birkenstocks.

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--NOT SUITED TO SUITS

Dear Not: Wool socks and Birkenstocks to a wedding . . . dare we say it won’t be the first time someone has sported that ensemble. But we will save you from that fate, don’t you worry.

We often recommend suits for mothers of the bride and groom because they’re relatively easy to find, can be dressed up or down, and are suitable for a variety of weddings, from garden settings to black-tie affairs.

We certainly are not against a long, silk dress if--and this is a very big if--it’s appropriate for the style of the wedding. Ask the bride if she thinks this will fit in with the level of formality and location. If not, ask for some suggestions that don’t include suits. A shorter sheath dress with a matching long jacket might be a compromise.

If it’s a go for the silk dress, then you just have the accessories to worry about. Those “trimmings” you mentioned--we’re a little curious as to what you mean exactly. A hat? Gloves? Lots of jewelry? Cranberry sauce? Again, you’ll need to think about where and when the wedding is. For a garden wedding, a hat is a great look. When putting your outfit together, keep in mind that you are not the center of attention; the bride and groom are, so don’t go over the top with the accessories.

As for the pashmina shawl, that’s OK too, especially if the wedding begins or ends in the evening, when it could be a little chilly. Make sure the shawl is in good condition--we’ve seen some bad pilling and fuzzing on some of those wraps lately. Not a pretty sight.

*

Write to Fashion Police, Los Angeles Times, Times Mirror Square, Los Angeles, CA 90053, fax to (213) 237-4888, or send e-mail to socal living@latimes.com.

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