Sweet Dreams

Christopher Reynolds missed the mug on hot chocolate (“Paris, Always in Season,” Dec. 12). I smugly predicted what I would see when I came to the name of the “dangerously rich hot chocolate” locations--and it was neither La Cour de Rohan nor La Jacobine Restaurant and Salon de The, which Reynolds mentions. I shouldn’t have been so smug. Some people are just led astray.

And so, Christopher, hop on the Metro, grab a cab or run all the way to 226 Rue de Rivoli. See “Angelina” on the storefront restaurant, “founded in 1903.” Order hot chocolate africain. Start salivating as the waiter places on your teeny table a white porcelain pitcher of the thickest, richest, most chocolaty beverage you can imagine, accompanied by a tiny saucer of fresh whipped cream. The danger is that you will become addicted to it and will, like me, have to have a steady flow of the packaged mystery granules mailed to you in between visits to Paris.

HARRON KELNER

Chatsworth