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The Chewy Berries

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Mandel is author of "Celebrating the Midwestern Table" (Doubleday & Co., 1996)

I like wheat berries, those golden-brown, rice-like kernels of wheat which become plump and chewy when simmered in liquid. Rich in vitamins and fiber, they’re often favored as cereal, but they can be added to a wide range of foods, including cookies, muffins, cakes, breads, pancakes, casseroles and salads. Look for them in health food stores.

Once wheat berries are cooked and softened, they can be stored in the refrigerator for five days or frozen for up to one month.

To cook them, combine 1 cup wheat berries and 3 cups water in 2-quart pot. Bring to boil over high heat, then reduce heat, cover and simmer until berries are tender to the bite, about 1 hour 15 minutes to 2 hours. Drain in colander and spread on paper towels until air-dried. You’ll have about 2 1/2 to 3 cups cooked berries. Store in airtight plastic bags.

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Winter Minestrone With Wheat Berries

Active Work Time: 55 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 2 hours 45 minutes * Vegetarian

You can vary the vegetables with the season, but never omit the rinds of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, which reinforce the soup’s character. (Store rinds in freezer until you’re ready to use them.) This soup is even better a day or two later.

3 tablespoons olive oil

2/3 cup cooked wheat berries, rinsed and drained

2 large red onions, cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 4 cups)

2 large stalks celery, cut in 1/2-inch dice (about 1 cup)

4 carrots, cut in 1/2-inch dice (about 1 cup)

1 baking potato, peeled and cut in 1/2-inch dice (about 1 cup)

2 zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 2 cups)

1/2 pound piece green cabbage, diced (about 2 cups)

1/4 pound green beans, trimmed, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1 tablespoon minced garlic

3 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary

1/3 cup minced fresh basil leaves

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can diced tomatoes with juice

1 (15-ounce can) pinto beans, rinsed and drained, 1/2 cup pureed in food processor

Several small rinds from Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Water

Coarse salt

Freshly ground pepper

Extra-virgin olive oil, for serving

Chopped basil leaves, for serving

Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for serving

Dried red pepper flakes, for serving

* Heat oil in 6-quart pot over medium heat. Add wheat berries, onions, celery, carrots, potato, zucchini, cabbage, green beans, garlic, rosemary and basil. Cook, stirring often, until vegetables are mostly softened, about 20 minutes.

* Add tomatoes and juice, whole and pureed beans, cheese rinds and 7 cups water. Bring to boil, then reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, about 1 hour 30 minutes. Add more water to keep stew-like consistency. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Can be served immediately or cooled and refrigerated or frozen up to 3 days.)

* To serve, use tongs to remove rinds. Adjust seasonings. Ladle into warm soup bowls, lightly drizzle with oil and sprinkle with basil. Pass cheese and red pepper flakes.

8 servings. Each serving: 226 calories; 368 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 6 grams fat; 37 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 4.56 grams fiber.

Wheat Berry Gingerbread Muffins

Active Work Time: 10 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 45 minutes

For a lower-fat muffin, use 4 egg whites instead of 2 eggs.

1 cup cooked wheat berries, dried

1 cup flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup sugar

6 tablespoons oil

2 eggs

1/2 cup buttermilk, well-shaken

1/2 cup raisins or dried currants

2 tablespoons molasses

Butter, for greasing

* Put berries and 1/4 cup flour in food processor fitted with metal blade. Process until berries are finely chopped. Add remaining flour, baking powder, cinnamon, allspice, salt, sugar, oil, eggs, buttermilk, raisins and molasses. Process briefly (5 to 10 seconds) to combine, stopping once to scrape down bowl. Do not over-process. Divide batter among 12 greased or paper-lined muffin cups.

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* Bake at 375 degrees until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, about 18 minutes. Cool in pan 5 minutes, then cool on wire rack at least 10 minutes. Serve warm. (Can be made a day ahead and kept at room temperature, wrapped airtight once completely cool. Reheat at 300 degrees 10 minutes.)

12 muffins. Each muffin: 215 calories; 143 mg sodium; 36 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 32 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 1.62 grams fiber.

Petite Dinner Salad of Wheat Berries and Apricots

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 15 minutes

2 cups cooked wheat berries, dried

1 or 2 stalks celery, cut into 1/3-inch dice (1/2 cup)

1/3 cup dried apricots, finely sliced

Juice of 2 oranges (about 2/3 cup)

1 tablespoon honey

1 teaspoon grated orange zest

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Few drops hot sauce

1/4 teaspoon coarse salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 1/2 cups baby spinach leaves, stems trimmed, crisped

* Toss together cooked wheat berries, celery, apricots, orange juice, honey, zest, mustard, hot sauce, salt and pepper to taste in medium bowl. Toss well. Taste and adjust seasonings. (Can be served immediately but is best refrigerated 3 hours or overnight for berries to absorb flavors.) Arrange spinach leaves on 4 dinner plates. Spoon salad over, dividing evenly.

4 servings. Each serving: 321 calories; 205 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 64 grams carbohydrates; 13 grams protein; 9.63 grams fiber.

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