‘Restaurant’ Uncovers Tension Beneath Surface Harmony

“Restaurant” does something special and does it beautifully: It charts the course of a contemporary interracial romance within the larger context of an integrated social situation. It takes place in an upscale Hoboken eatery with a youthful staff for whom the Manhattan skyline seems so near yet so far--the perfect symbol of their dreams.

Director Eric Bross and writer Tom Cudworth drew from their own experiences in the making of this film, and it shows in its incisive, highly personal quality. Edgy, funny and emotionally wrenching, “Restaurant” glows with vital writing, acting and direction.

Adrien Brody, tall and thin with remarkably expressive eyes, has in rapid succession gone from one notable film to the next, most recently “Liberty Heights” (which ironically also featured a blossoming interracial relationship). In “Restaurant” he arguably has his most challenging and substantial role to date as Chris, the head bartender. Chris is also a playwright, one who can take scarce pleasure in the production of his highly autobiographical play, for his stage alter ego is played by a glib, handsome co-worker, Kenny (Simon Baker-Denny).

Kenny has had a fling with Chris’ now ex-lover Leslie (Grammy Award-winning singer Lauryn Hill) that has left Chris in a state of emotional anguish. Yet along comes a new waitress--and talented aspiring singer--Jeannine (Elise Neal), who is swiftly drawn to Chris. Too swiftly--for Jeannine finds herself falling in love with Chris, even though he has not freed himself from his feelings for Leslie. As it happens, both Jeannine and Leslie are beautiful, charismatic African American women.

By and large the restaurant staffers are as close as they are diverse, but tensions emerge beneath surface harmony. Chris doesn’t hesitate to put his job on the line to insist that the hard-working Steven (Malcolm-Jamal Warner), an African American, get a shot at bartending when the restaurant’s proprietor (John Carroll Lynch) threatens to pass him over in favor of a less dedicated, young white guy. A tragic incident triggers a latent racism within Chris, who is the child of a blatantly racist father.

Brody takes us through all of Chris’ painful self-discovery in an illuminating manner, and Neal is easily his equal as Jeannine, who is as vulnerable as she is lovely. Also key in a splendid cast is David Moscow as Brody’s reckless pal Reggae, Catherine Kellner as a waitress who drinks too much and, unlike most of the others, has no drive. And, in a comparatively small yet pivotal role, hip-hop superstar Hill makes Leslie an unexpectedly sympathetic character.

“Restaurant” surely can’t have cost much--in film relative terms--but it looks great and flows well. “Restaurant” marks the second collaboration for Bross and Cudworth, who made their feature debut with “Ten Benny” in 1998. It augurs well for them, their cast and their crew.

* MPAA rating: R for sexuality, language and drug use. Times guidelines: language, some violence, sensuality, some drug-taking; complex adult themes.

‘Restaurant’

Adrien Brody: Chris Calloway

Elise Neal: Jeannine

David Moscow: Reggae

Malcolm-Jamal Warner: Steven

Lauryn Hill: Leslie

Simon Baker-Denny: Kenny

A Palisades Pictures presents in association with Giv’en Films a Chaiken Films production. Director Eric Bross. Producers H.M. Coakley, Shana Stein, Bross. Executive producers Mark D. Severini, Gary J. Palermo, Galt Niederhoffer, Michael Brysch. Screenplay by Tom Cudworth. Cinematographer Horacio Marquinez. Editor Keith Reamer. Music Theodore Shapiro. Costumes Elizabeth Shelton. Production designer Steven McCabe. Art director Shawn Carroll. Set decorator Nick Evans. Running time: 1 hour, 47 minutes.

At selected theaters.