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1998 Au Bon Climat Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay ‘Le Bouge D’ a Co^te,’ Central Coast

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Say what? Au Bon Climat’s Jim Clendennan loves a pun. This wine’s name means “the shack next door.” When I called the winery for clarification, I was told it refers to the vineyard around the corner from its Pinot Noir vineyard at the top of the Bien Nacido slope.

Despite the name, this is one beautiful Central Coast Chardonnay with much to admire in its balance, focus and depth of flavor. The grapes come from the renowned Bien Nacido vineyard--if California had crus, this would certainly be one.

About $25. Available at fine wine shops and retailers. If you can’t find this wine, ask your retailer to call the distributor, Angeles Wine Agency, (818) 764-2221.

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