A Luxe Approach to Comfort Food at Angel’s American Bistro

Looks can be deceiving. A commercial office park on Venice Boulevard might not be the most tantalizing of locations, but Angel’s American Bistro needs no gimmicks or glitz to attract people who are serious about food.

Owners Martin and Angel Lee, who helped launch nearby Lilly’s, have opened a delightful bistro where service reigns supreme. Former Melisse sous-chef Jason Simpson heads up the kitchen. Here, it’s all about comfort, from the food to the casual decor (clean and airy, Santa Fe meets the beach with sea-foam green painted chairs, laminated wood sculptures and a trompe l’oeil adobe wall).

The Lees have taken an unexpected approach to the wine list, arranging selections according to product rather than varietal. They’ve chosen a few plum boutique wineries and offer several styles of wine from each. Given the modest size of the list, it’s refreshing to find so many offerings by the glass.

Crab cakes can be a dicey lot, but here they’re plump with crab meat and slivers of wild mushrooms. For the trio of tuna, a glossy cut of seared ahi arrives with a dab of creme frai^che with a wasabi kick, on a bed of tuna tartar and ahi poki. The tomato salad uses gorgeous red and yellow organic tomatoes that have been hand-picked from farmers markets--they are, in fact, so flavorful that one wonders if the heady balsamic vinegar is even necessary.

Continuing with the comfort theme, main courses are served up in large, deep white bowls. While I suspect this unusual signature touch works well with the macaroni and cheese entree, I admit that I’d prefer to tackle meat on a plate. Reaching down to cut the roasted pork loin is awkward, but I forget the minor inconvenience at first bite. The pork is juicy and tender, served with horseradish jus and heaps of candied sweet potatoes. Moroccan-spiced rack of lamb with cured olives and prunes fares better in the bowl as the couscous soaks up the broth. A generous helping of Sonoma County duck breast is seared to perfection in a port-peppercorn sauce with mango, turnips and bok choy. For dessert, it’s best to keep it simple. The berry cobbler with vanilla ice cream hits the spot.

It’s a quirky location, but don’t let that put you off. With service this good and food that delivers, Angel’s is worth the effort.

BE THERE

Angel’s American Bistro, 636 Venice Blvd., Venice, (310) 827-5878. Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; dinner every night, 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.; brunch Saturday and Sunday, 9:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Appetizers, $7 to $12; Main courses, $12 to $25.