Tacos: Roll Your Own

You can take home the makings of a great taco dinner from El Toro Carniceria in Santa Ana. The filling would be carnitas--chunks of pork butt fried brown and crusty in huge copper caldrons. (But don’t worry that the meat will be greasy; high heat seals it so it doesn’t absorb the fat.) Buy a pound or more of carnitas, add a package of the fresh corn tortillas made on the premises, and all you’ll need for tacos is salsa. The market’s deli sells that too, but usually you’ll find a container or two tucked in with your meat and tortillas.

Carnitas, $5.99 a pound; corn tortillas, $1.10 for a package of three dozen; salsa, $1.10 a half-pint, at El Toro Carniceria, 1340 W. 1st St., Santa Ana. (714) 836-1393.