A Riot of Choice in Cuban Cuisine

Eating at Habana Restaurant & Bar in Costa Mesa can be an exercise in frustration.

Since it opened nearly five years ago, it’s established itself as a popular destination for county sophisticates. Saturday night flamenco dancing, salsa music and flickering candlelight complement a menu brimming with Cuban offerings with a Caribbean flair.

But that’s the problem. It’s nearly impossible to order from the lunch or dinner menu because seemingly everything, everything sounds so good. And that’s why Habana’s brunch is such a pleasant solution.

Many of the restaurant’s prized delights make up an all-you-can-eat buffet for $12.95.

Habana’s brunch begins at 11:30 a.m.--a little later than most, but it works out well. There is French toast, diced potatoes and omelets made to order, but most of the buffet is made up of heartier lunch-style fare that might be a bit much to handle earlier in the morning.

The buffet line starts out with a salad--greens and tomatoes tossed in a light, tangy vinaigrette--followed by steamed rice and black beans that are best mixed together. Stock up on the plantain slices--Caribbean bananas sliced thin and deep fried, complementing their slightly sweet taste--because they are snatched up almost as quickly as they are served.

Next up are the empanadas and bocaditos that are popular items on Habana’s appetizer menu. The empanadas are doughy pockets stuffed with chicken or vegetables and served with a variety of sauces. The bocaditos, however, are especially delicious. They look like Sunday dinner rolls, but are wrapped around seasoned ground beef.

Make room on your plate for the cod fritters, which look like blackened, oversized golf balls but are really tasty dipped into the accompanying chipotle tartar sauce.

The rest of the buffet line features dishes that normally make up Habana’s dinner menu. They include roasted chicken, pork carnitas and a tender shredded pork concoction called ropa vieja--literally, “old clothes,” but tasting far better.

There’s also a new twist on an old dish: chicken picadillo. Typically a sweet-savory dish made of ground beef, raisins, capers and other spices, this plate takes ground chicken and spices it up with a zesty tomato-based sauce. For something simpler, there’s hand-carved London Broil.

Vegetarians will also find plenty to eat, including the cheese-covered vegetable tamale pie.

Desserts are spread out across the top of the bar and typically include an incredibly creamy flan served with strawberry slices that will satisfy any sweet tooth. A less sugary option is the blueberry bread pudding.

It’s not advertised, but be sure to ask about the mimosa special. For a few extra dollars, waiters will keep the champagne and orange juice flowing. At least that’s the idea. On our recent visit, we found ourselves gently reminding the waiters to keep ‘em coming. Everyone should have such problems.

Habana Restaurant & Bar, 2930 Bristol Ave., Costa Mesa. Reservations are recommended. Call: (714) 556-0176. A $19.95 brunch will be served today and Mother’s Day, with a special menu featuring paella.