Eggs, Champagne, Dolphins at Duke’s
The line starts forming outside about 9:30 a.m. most Sundays, and it’s no wonder. Duke’s is one of the few Orange County restaurants that actually overlooks the beach, making its brunch a draw for locals and tourists.
Where else can you drink a mimosa while being serenaded by Hawaiian music against such a stunning backdrop? At the foot of the Huntington Beach Pier, Duke’s offers views of people playing beach volleyball, in-line skaters, runners and cyclists on the recreation path that fronts the sand, Surf City surfers and the occasional dolphin frolicking offshore.
Offerings at Duke’s brunch buffet range from the routine to the inspired. Standard fare includes French toast and scrambled eggs with cheese, grilled sausages, a variety of tossed salads and bagels, lox and cream cheese. There’s also a meatless version of eggs benedict that substitutes slices of ripe avocado. The carving station offered a luscious slab of prime rib, but it was far too well done.
Most at our table gave rave reviews to an unusual dish featuring pork seasoned in traditional Hawaiian spices and served with sauteed Napa cabbage. The same couldn’t be said for the ceviche. Full of bay shrimp, scallops and plump bits of salmon, the seafood is tossed in a rich tomato-based sauce. Some found it overpowering, while others enjoyed it.
The dessert station, however, was a unanimous favorite: Large, ripe strawberries; chewy macaroons dipped in chocolate; pecan pie; lemon bars; individual apple tarts; bite-sized Napoleons; eclairs; cream puffs; and a variety of cheesecakes.
Service can be spotty at the Hawaiian-themed restaurant, but may also be understandable given the crowds. We ordered champagne ($12 a bottle) for mimosas but then had to remind our waitress to bring us orange juice. And our check arrived before we were able to place our coffee orders.
These glitches aside, Duke’s is a perfect place to take out-of-towners, and children are welcome. But beware if you have a gathering of eight or more. Duke’s requires that such reservations be made through the “large party” hostess, who won’t guarantee seating with an ocean view. As it turned out, our table was in the main dining room offering an expansive view of the Pacific, which, of course, is the whole point.
* Duke’s, 317 Pacific Coast Highway, Huntington Beach. Brunch, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. $16.95 for adults. Champagne, drinks extra. Reservations are recommended: (714) 374-6446.
