IN THE MOOD

Here are a few places that take the American classic a step further.

* Zax: You’ll need both hands to eat this ample rib-eye burger, set on a chewy pretzel bun with apple-smoked bacon and melted Fontina cheese. Lettuce and tomato come on the side, along with thick-cut French fries. (Ground rib-eye burger, $12.) Zax, 11604 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, (310) 571-3800.

* Julienne: The patty here is covered with homemade onion marmalade, and served on a toasted brioche bun with lettuce, tomato and basil aioli. With rustic fries with their skins on. (Julienne burger, $9.95.) Julienne, 2649 Mission St., San Marino, (626) 441-2299.

* Nick & Stef’s Steakhouse: Where else can you find an aged prime filet burger? This monster comes with homemade mayo, ketchup and mustard on a sesame brioche bun. If you want cheese, there’s sharp Cheddar. As if that wasn’t enough, it’s served with a pile of garlic fries. (Grilled sirloin burger, $12 at lunch, $5 at happy hour.) Nick & Stef’s Steakhouse, Wells Fargo Center, 330 S. Hope St., downtown L.A., (213) 680-0330.

* Memphis: The soul burger starts with ground sirloin grilled with the restaurant’s own barbecue sauce, served on a fresh old-fashioned bun with a chipotle aioli and pepper Jack cheese. It comes with salad or a mass of shoestring fries. (Soul burger, $7.95 at lunch, $9.25 at dinner.) Memphis, 2920 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, (714) 432-7685.

* 26 Beach Cafe: There are 10 terrific burgers at these places. The most unusual might be the Bombay burger, covered with chunky mango chutney and slightly sweet, slightly spicy coconut curry, served on an onion, cheese or whole wheat bun with a side salad or French fries. (Bombay burger, $9.95.) 26 Beach Cafe, 26 Washington St., Venice, (310) 821-8129; 3100 Washington Blvd., Marina del Rey, (310) 823-7526.

* Father’s Office: This perfectly cooked burger is a mixture of dry-aged New York trim, coarse-ground sirloin and chuck, topped with Gruyere and Maytag blue cheese and a compote of caramelized onions and apple-wood bacon, all on a crusty French baguette. Be sure to get some of the crisp, skinny little fries with garlic aioli. (Office burger, $9.50.) Father’s Office, 1018 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, (310) 393-2337.