Indulging a Yen for Low Prices in Tokyo

One of the biggest, most cutting-edge cities in the world, Tokyo, Japan’s huge, hectic capital, offers an exciting mix of modern--even futuristic--urbanity (including products and concepts years ahead of those in North America) and echoes of the bygone era of shoguns and samurai, geishas and pagodas. Although Tokyo’s reputation as an expensive destination has been more or less justified, the combination of a decent exchange rate recently and knowing where and how to spend your money will give your budget a big boost.

First of all, for air fare you can sometimes do better with consolidators that specialize in the U.S.-Japan market. They can lop 25% to 35% off standard fares. One of them, New York-based Kintetsu International ([800] 225-5543, www.kintetsu.com), was recently selling a Los Angeles-Tokyo economy-class round trip in January for $497 and air-land packages starting at $625, good for travel through March from any of 80 cities served by Continental Airlines. (Kintetsu can also be reached at its branch office at 12750 Center Court Drive, Suite 150, Cerritos, CA 90703; [800] 526-6828.)

If you go the independent route, choose your lodging well. Good but reasonably priced options include the Kikuya Ryokan, telephone/fax 011-81-3-3841-6404 , in the old-fashioned Asakusa district north of central Tokyo, with singles from $39 and doubles from $66.

And if you want to try one of those funky capsule hotels, with tiny cemetery-vault-style rooms that are essentially high-tech enclosed bunk beds, the Hotel Asa- kusa Capsule, 011-81-3-3847-4477, in the Taito-ku district near the Tawaramachi subway station, charges $21 for singles and $58 for doubles. You can find other suitable budget lodgings through the Welcome Inn Group (www.itcj.or.jp).

When it comes time to eat, you’ll find that your biggest savings are at noodle bars, where bowls of pasta come in many variations for as little as $3.30. They are everywhere, but a particularly good, tasty variety can be found near the Japan Rail Tokyo subway station in the Yaesu shopping mall and also around the pedestrian bridge at JR Harajuku station.

If it’s sushi you’re after, it can be even more expensive in Tokyo than at home ($30 to $40 a head is common) unless you choose your sushi restaurant carefully. You’ll pay the least for good sushi at kaiten zushi bars, where plates costing a dollar or two whirl around on conveyor belts; one good one is Heirokusushi at Omotesando 5-8-5, Shibuya Ku, just below Coffee Chat Noir near the JR Harajuku subway station. Finally, you can also buy bento boxes (with little compartments of meat, veggies and rice) for as little as $2.75 at convenience stores.

Here are several suggestions for activities that will cost you little to nothing.

You can do some cheap sightseeing by taking a loop of the above-ground Yamanote rail line, which circles central Tokyo in a little more than an hour. It passes major sites and costs only $1.50. Or relax in pre-20th century Tokyo on the antique Waseda Tram, which for the same price takes you past temples, cemeteries and museums on the Toden Arakawa line. (Pick it up opposite JR Otsuka station.)

You can visit a Japanese home for free (you do need to take a wrapped gift) by booking a day ahead with the Tourist Information Center (011-81-3-3201-3331). And you should check out the quirky, often amusing and always cheap (or free) museums of the area called Sumida Ku, which are sometimes no bigger than a bus shelter yet offer insight into Japanese culture. (Look for the rainbow-style museum symbol.)

Other offbeat freebies include the Tabi Museum, a collection of the split-toe socks worn with kimonos (1-9-3 Midori; Ryogoku station); the Sumo Museum (1F, 1-3-28 Yokoami; Ryogoku station); the Rubber Baseball Museum (2-36-10 Sumida; Kanegafuchi station); and the Meguro Parasitological Museum (4-1-12 Shimo, Meguro; Meguro station). For less than $2, the Beer Museum (Yebisu Garden Place, JR Ebisu station) gives a history of Sapporo Breweries and limitless samples, or visit the Tobacco and Salt Museum (1-16-8 Jinnan; JR Shibuya station).

Afterward, don’t miss a traditional Japanese sento (public bath) for $3 to $6 a dunk. (Try Azabujuban Onsen at 1-5-22 Azabujuban, near the Azabujuban subway station; closed Tuesdays.)

For more information, contact the Japan National Tourist Organization, 515 S. Figueroa St., Suite 1470, Los Angeles, CA 90071; (213) 623-1952, fax (213) 623-6301, www.jnto.go.jp or www.japantravelinfo.com. Other helpful Web sites include the Tokyo Convention and Visitors Bureau, www.tcvb.or.jp, as well as www.tokyoweb.com, www.newsonjapan.com, www.insite-tokyo.com and www.bento.com.