Attention! Madrid Has New Appeal

Turbot and pigs’ feet are often mixed in a tasty stew in Catalonia, but Sergi Arola has taken it to a savory new level. At La Broche, his chic Madrid restaurant, the upstart chef pan-sears the fish with a touch of cilantro and wraps the pork with onion in a delicate gelatin. He then eases the two dishes like miniature sculptures onto opposite sides of a plate as big and bright as a full moon.

When the waiter brought my order of turbot con patas de puerco, I lingered over every heavenly bite and added the dish to the menu of my imaginary last supper.

Such inspired reinventions of standard Spanish fare have catapulted Arola to numero uno among Madrid’s chefs in a year’s time, according to Jose Carlos Capel, food critic for El Pais, the Madrid daily. They also have made a seat at the starkly minimalist La Broche the hottest meal ticket in town. On a recent night there, Madrid Mayor Jose Maria Alvarez del Manzano, his wife and some friends hunkered over the next table till 1 a.m.

“Traditional Spanish cooking is wonderful,” 32-year-old Arola explained in an after-dinner conversation. “But to stay on the cutting edge, we’ve got to use a little spice and a lot of imagination.”

That sums up nuevo Madrid too. In a week of gadding about the Spanish capital late last fall, I encountered Madrilenos, as the city’s residents are known, applying that principle on almost every street I trod. Here were local jazz artists that would inspire a tip of the hat from Miles Davis, maestro of the avant-garde. Spanish designers showed off shoes that might send even Prada, master of fashion fads, running to the drawing board.

Coupled with the formidable buying power of the dollar against the Spanish peseta, this push of the new against the old has made Madrid an excellent destination. Despite recent gains made by the euro, the new currency gradually being phased in across the Continent, almost any stop in Europe is a bargain for American travelers, especially in winter. But the mix of cheap air fares and affordable ground costs has vaulted Spain to the top of the list of “get there if you can” places.

Examples: My room at the five-star Villa Real hotel, whose classy address (footsteps from the magnificent Prado museum) and refined decor would have commanded $300 in New York, went for a $125 a night, a weekend special and quite a deal. An inspired three-course lunch at the posh Cafe de Oriente, sweetened with a view of the lush Plaza de Oriente, was $9. A pair of black leather boots at Lamarca, one of the city’s best-known shoe dealers, went for $75, about half of what they would have cost back home. A ride across town on the metro was 75 cents.

Beyond the bargains, the nips and tucks in Madrid’s face have transformed it from one of Western Europe’s most staid capitals into an urban hot spot with novel allure. Although always a prime travel destination for the incomparable collections of Diego Velazquez and other masters at the Prado, Spain’s center of government and finance was slow to emerge from the shadow dictator Francisco Franco cast down every block of the city (and all of Spain) during a 36-year rule that ended with his death in 1975.

But that has long since changed. Along the Calle Echegaray, a narrow street off the Plaza de Santa Ana lined with tapas bars and nightclubs, I stumbled onto a young generation of musicians performing spirited jazz and rock renditions of flamenco, the mesmerizing performance art forged two centuries ago by Andalusian gypsies. In boutiques along such fashionable avenues as Calle Serrano and Calle Jorge Juan, Armand Basi and other top Spanish designers are combining bold colors like Seville blood orange with novel fabric blends in a bid to keep abreast of their trend-setting counterparts in Paris and Milan.

In the raucous dance clubs just north of Gran Via, the heart of Madrid’s night life, disc jockeys keep the beat going to the wee hours with salsa and merengue hits from the former Spanish outposts of Cuba and the Dominican Republic, the hip music rage in these parts.

In Carlos Oyarbide, El Chaflan and other trendy new dining spots, young chefs are introducing new versions of old favorites, like gazpacho made with langoustine and scrambled eggs perfumed with sea urchin, and are gradually lifting the city’s culinary standards to Parisian heights.

Besides Franco’s death, locals credit Spain’s membership in the European Union, which links the major countries across Europe in a federal-style system, as a driving force behind the updated look and feel of the capital city. By opening the borders for free movement between member countries, the EU has dramatically increased contacts between Europeans across the Continent.

“My Madrileno friends used to quote David Bowie saying that Spain was part of Africa,” said Thomas Dalury, an American expatriate who has lived in Madrid for the past 12 years. “Now they’re wearing hairstyles from Italy and glasses from Germany. They seem to have a newfound need to keep up with trends in other parts of Europe.”

Some aspects of Madrid’s new look were long overdue, but others seemed unnecessary. Think of Spanish actress Carmen Maura, exotic star of Pedro Almodovar movies, with a face lift. The result would surely be striking, but the original product was also lovely without it, muchas gracias.

No new attractions could compete with Madrid’s storehouses of art, for example, including the collections of paintings and sculptures at the Prado, the Thyssen-Bornemisza and the Reina Sofia. With only two days to divide between the three colossal art palaces, I plotted my visits carefully, flipping through guidebooks and pinpointing the paintings I wanted to see: at the Prado, the Goyas in rooms 89 and 32; at the Thyssen, the Impressionists in rooms 32 and 33; at the Reina Sofia, the Picassos, up one flight, down the hall and to the right. High on my list of must-sees: Velazquez’s “Las Meninas,” the Prado’s prized masterpiece, and Picasso’s celebrated “Guernica” at the Reina Sofia.

But no amount of homework could have prepped me for the mesmerizing effect the artwork would have. After a quick tour of other displays at the Reina Sofia, I returned to the Picassos and found myself still goggling over them three hours later.

Madrid’s landscape is another aspect of its time-honored appeal. Although usually compared unfavorably to Barcelona, where the wildly imaginative architect Antonio Gaudi left an indelible mark, the city’s sweep of Baroque and Neoclassical buildings gives it a regal feel.

From our perch atop a double-decker tour bus one Sunday afternoon, my friend Eddy and I took in the facades, from the 17th century Baroque Palacio del Duque de Uceda to the colossal Italianate Baroque Palacio Real, built at the end of the 18th century. Everywhere we turned, elegant bronzes of gods, monarchs and scribes towered, from the fountain of Apollo on Paseo del Prado to the monument to author Miguel de Cervantes on Plaza de Espana. But the highlight of the four-hour excursion was Plaza Mayor, whose ornate 17th century structures make up the city’s architectural soul.

Tapas are another must in Madrid. It would be a shame not to indulge in this internationally trendy culinary attraction in one of its original strongholds. Appetizer-size dishes made with fish, meat or cheese and usually served atop a piece of bread, tapas are a Spanish treat dating to the 19th century. With Nigel Hack, a young Englishman who runs Madrid & Beyond, a travelers’ service in Spain, leading the way, we spent an evening making the rounds of some of the city’s most popular tapas bars.

The Plaza de Santa Ana, where narrow, winding streets leading off the main square swell with Madrilenos until late every night, was our stamping ground after hours. Our first stop: La Venencia, a popular bar with rustic wood decor that serves only sherry. At just 90 cents a glass, a vintage brand went down neatly and whetted our appetites for something to munch.

Next we hit La Truca, a friendly corner restaurant lined with bright blue and white tiles, where we nibbled on smoked Andalusian ham, finely sliced sharp cheeses and oven-fresh bread. Then came the Casa del Abuelo, a small corner joint with a fervent following. Bellying up to the crowded wooden bar, we took in a round of Mahou, the sweet beer beloved by Madrilenos, and a few orders of tasty shrimp with garlic sauce, the only dish served. The folksy ambience of the place is enhanced by its patrons’ habit of gobbling their shrimp, then dropping the shells on the floor.

Our final foray was to Los Gabrieles, a bar covered with colorful tiles. It attracted a young artistic crowd. There we called for more ham and cheese and another glass of Mahou. By then I had begun to understand what tapear means, to eat tapas. Back home, the trend refers to making a meal of a few plates of appetizer-like dishes; in Madrid it is a form of entertainment.

D own the block, I found other eating and drinking establishments, each as inviting as the next. At the Taberna Almendro 13, even a Tuesday evening seemed like Friday happy hour. Nearby, El Tempranillo was filled with an equally vibrant crowd.

This was La Latina, Madrid’s hippest new neighborhood. Until a few years ago a modest settlement of low-rise apartment buildings and nondescript tabernas, it has been transformed by young artists and entrepreneurs into a favored shopping and hanging-out area for cool Madrilenos and adventurous visitors.

My own excursion to La Latina, just three subway stops from busy Gran Via, felt like going from midtown Manhattan to Greenwich Village. Unexpected treats hid behind each door. One shop specialized in African masks, another in handmade ceramic lamps, a third in tapestries from different regions.

Even flamenco has changed. At Caracol, a spacious, standing-room-only performance hall covered with posters of Spanish pop stars, there were couples in their 20s arm in arm, small groups of friends laughing, even a young mother with two toddlers in tow.

This was not going to be a typical evening of flamenco. In its most traditional form, flamenco is practiced in dark bars, with the performers decked out in dark suits and brightly colored dresses, engaging in a dramatic ritual of song and dance.

I had seen an old-style flamenco act earlier in my stay in Madrid, but that night I opted for the nuevo version. This movement to modernize flamenco has gained an increasingly fervent following in recent years, particularly among a younger generation of Spaniards.

By the time Cuadro Flamenco, a Madrid-based performance group, boogied onstage, I knew I’d get my wish for an evening with contemporary flair. Two band members were wearing jeans and T-shirts; one woman had on casual clothes.

Despite its clear break from the classical style, the group did not disappoint. Just as in traditional flamenco, the performers told a story with each act, with the crooners narrating and the guitarists and dancers adding dramatic effect. But this time the music had a jazz edge, and the songs focused on contemporary themes, including one dedicated to Federico Garcia Lorca, the beloved Spanish poet executed by a nationalist firing squad in 1936. When the group finished, the audience applauded enthusiastically. The concert left me dreaming of nuevo Madrid.

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GUIDEBOOK

Finding the Hottest Spots in Madrid

Getting there: From LAX, connecting service (change of planes) is offered on American (also as a code share with Iberia), US Airways, Continental, Air France, Alitalia, Delta, British and KLM. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $712.

Where to stay: Hotel Villa Real, 10 Plaza de las Cortes, telephone 011-34-91-420-3767, fax 011-34-91-420-2547, Internet https://www.slh.com/pages/e/ealspaa.html, is an excellent choice. This 115-room hotel with intimate Old World charm is in one of the city’s best locations. I opted for a winter weekend package with a double costing $125, including a sumptuous buffet breakfast. Otherwise, rooms run about $225.

Hostal Valencia, 2 Plaza de Oriente, is a seven-room guest house with stunning views of Madrid’s most elegant square. The third-floor walk-up is like a four-star bed-and-breakfast without the breakfast. My double room was a steal at $70 a night. Reservations should be made through Madrid & Beyond (information below).

Best Western Los Condes, 7 Calle de los Libreros, tel. 011-34-91-521-5455, fax 011-34-91-521-7882, https://www.bestwestern.com, is a modern budget option in a central location. The rooms are tidy if a bit spartan. Doubles begin at about $65 a night.

Where to eat: With its delightful nueva cocina menu, La Broche, in the Hotel Miguel Angel, 29-31 Calle Miguel Angel, local tel. 91-399-3437, is the hottest dining spot in town. Dinner is a full evening affair. With wine, the tab for two comes to about $100.

El Chaflan, 34 Avenida de Pio XII, tel. 91-350-6193, has a decor and clientele that are equally chic. My tantalizing rabbit soup and mushroom risotto, accompanied by a fine half-bottle of Spanish wine, came to $50. For more traditional Spanish fare, Cafe de Oriente, 2 Plaza de Oriente, 91-547-1564, does a tasty prix-fixe lunch, including salad or soup, freshly prepared fish or meat and a choice of desserts, for $9.

Night life: For nuevo flamenco, two clubs worth trying: Suristan, 7 Calle de la Cruz, tel. 91-532-3909, and Cardamomo, 15 Calle Echegaray, tel. 91-369-0757. For other night life happenings, check Guia del Ocio, a weekly guide sold at kiosks throughout the city.

For more information: Madrid & Beyond, Gran Via 59; tel. 011-34-91-758-0063, fax 011-34-91-542-4391, https://www.madridandbeyond.com, a smart travel agency run by bright English speakers, was indispensable for making reservations and plans.

Tourist Office of Spain, 8383 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 956, Beverly Hills, CA 90211; tel. (323) 658-7188 or (323) 658-7192/3, fax (323) 658-1061, https://www.okspain.org.