Stylin’ on the Eastside

For style scouts who long for a taste of Mexico without traveling south of the border, Boyle Heights is a gold mine. The five-block stretch on East Cesar E. Chavez Avenue between Cummings and Soto streets is lined with Mexican bakeries, restaurants and the occasional strolling norten~o musicians. Spanish music and conversation pepper the air, which is heavy with the smell of roasting chickens, fresh tamales and tortillas.

Neighborhood women gather in the shops to gossip, check out the latest styles and watch the afternoon soaps. After school, kids dart from block to block on their scooters, stopping into Tu Musica-Wherehouse, the mostly Spanish-language version of the music chain store.

Foot traffic is limited on weekdays, although Tuesdays and Fridays are when Arnoldo Cruz Lopez, owner of El Trebol, sells most of his traditional Mexican oils, perfumes and soaps claiming to induce effects such as luck, love and wealth. “That’s when most people try to get rid of bad spirits in their houses,” he said. Still, Saturday is when the street is crowded and business is bustling.

At first glance, the stores nestled between currency exchange offices and weight-loss clinics may seem underwhelming. But shoppers can find gems, and fashion is all about how you put things together, anyway, right?

For those taking their style cues from Madonna’s latest rodeo persona, the area’s shops feature a wide selection of gear for urban cowboys: Stetson hats, cowboy boots, western-style shirts and Wrangler jeans.

Stores also offer the hip club looks of Melrose Avenue without the attitude and the high prices. There’s a large stock of youthful sparkly T-shirts, faux fur jackets and flashy pants--in regular, plus and even maternity sizes. A trendy snake-print long-sleeved shirt sells for just $4.99. (Similar pieces sell at malls for more than $20).

In addition, shops offer inexpensive basics for men and women, including sweatpants, Levi’s jeans and Dickies pants. And unique items abound, from Hello Kitty gifts to traditional Mexican health and beauty products.

The prices are so attractive, with many things costing less than $10.With $40 (and a little elbow grease), we scored three rhinestone T-shirts, a 1970s ski jacket and a pair of imitation crocodile sandals.

Happy hunting.

The Route: Start on East Cesar E. Chavez Avenue at Cummings Street. Head east to Soto St., then cross over to the otherside of Cesar E. Chavez Avenue and complete the loop.

A sampling of stores:

Small World, 2018 E. Cesar E. Chavez Ave., (323) 264-4995. Inexpensive but cute children’s clothes, including a $15.99 mini trench coat, a bohemian-looking outfit that has leggings and a sweater with beaded fringe for $17.99 and lacy Easter dresses starting at $23.

El Norten~o, 2036 E. Cesar E. Chavez Ave., (323) 264-1589. Rodeo gear for the whole family: Wrangler jeans, western-style snap-front shirts, pint-sized cowboy boots for kids starting at $39, Stetson hats from $140, and a large selection of silver belt buckles from $50.

Cesar Dollar Store, 2100 E. Cesar E. Chavez Ave., (323) 268-3079. Basic clothes and home furnishings you’d expect to find at a discount store and a few finds for shoppers willing to dig, including men’s, women’s and children’s Fruit of the Loom and Hanes sweatshirts and sweatpants in an array of colors starting at $3.50, a selection of Dickies pants for about $16 a pair (they usually sell for more than $25), flip-flops with overgrown flowers on the toes ($3.99) and cute cotton lingerie for less than $5 apiece.

Olivia’s Beauty Supply, 2115 E. Cesar E. Chavez Ave., (323) 266-1131. A treasure trove of quirky things--a nail clipper with a picture of the Eiffel Tower on it, donkey’s milk soap, $1.19 eye shadows in bright colors, fake Burberry plaid hair barrettes, Mexican fortunetelling games and more.

Happy Fashion, 2200 E. Cesar E. Chavez Ave. (323) 263-8323. Zip-front powder pink collegiate-looking sweatshirts that say “Princess” across the chest for about $12, lariat necklaces accented with rosebuds for $3.99 and Prada-esque bowling bag purses for $15.99. Plus sizes available.

Candy Cane Fashion, 2306 E. Cesar E. Chavez Ave., (323) 268-7097. Clothing and accessory styles you would find at Rampage or Contempo Casuals, but for half the price. Caramel-colored faux reptile sandals are a bargain at $14, along with a cute woolly tote bag trimmed with pompoms for about $12. And, just in time for Valentine’s Day, red T-shirts emblazoned with rhinestones in the shape of lips sell for $11.99. Plus sizes available.

El Trebol, 2310 E. Cesar E. Chavez Ave., (323) 526-4496. You’ll find a bit of everything at this beauty supply and gift emporium, which carries an array of headbands, python-print hair clips and scrunchies, most for less than $1; Hello Kitty body art kits and clear pink plastic Fiorucci totes each sell for $2.99. In the back, there’s a selection of colorfully kitschy Mexican perfumes, air fresheners and soaps, labeled with the effects they claim to induce such as luck, love and wealth.

Fashion Col., 2312 E. Cesar E. Chavez Ave., (323) 263-4646. Club wear for the plus-size set. Tie-front sweaters, rayon skirts in wildly colored prints with ruffles at the hem and faux fur, zip-front vests. Most pieces less than $20.

Boa, 2324 E. Cesar E. Chavez Ave., (323) 268-1423. The store opened just a few weeks ago with tons of great clothes, made mostly from polyester, spandex and pleather. A black polyester skirt with elaborately beaded fringe at the hem is a steal at $24, as are very Tracey Ross-like $12 cap-sleeved baby tees, decorated with rhinestones and an image of the Hollywood sign. A plaid below-the-knee skirt for $12.99 can be accessorized with a $13 rabbit-fur collar and a pair of $6.99 rhinestone hoop earrings.

Maria’s Shoes, 2325 E. Cesar E. Chavez Ave., (323) 262-1508. Strappy, patent-leather sandals, rhinestone and beaded slides and glittery platforms, most for less than $20 a pair. Check out the hot pink and purple pleated leather high heels for about $14. Pair them with anklets a la Marc Jacobs, and they could be just the thing for spring’s 1980s revival.

ABC Gifts, 2315 E. Cesar E. Chavez Ave., (323) 269-6398. A Hello Kitty bonanza--clocks, cameras, cell phone covers, key chains, pencil cases, gift bags and more, many at discounted prices.

Saleh Sportswear, 2225 E. Cesar E. Chavez Ave., (323) 264-0428. Stetson hats, $100 to $140, shelves and shelves of Levi’s and Guess jeans for men and women, plus plenty of cowboy boots.

Betty’s Gifts, 2203 E. Cesar E. Chavez Ave., (323) 263-9077. Tinted sunglasses that look very Chloe-like for $4, stationery inspired by Japanese animation for $1, six-color lip gloss compacts for $3.99 and hair accessories galore.

Botanica La Santa Cruz, 2137 E. Cesar E. Chavez Ave., (323) 980-5059. Religious santos, incense, veladoras and everything else for your worshiping needs.

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Where You Can Stop and Grab a Bite

La Parrilla, 2126 E. Cesar E. Chavez Ave., (323) 262-3434. Traditional Mexican fare, including burritos, fajitas and enchiladas. Most entrees $12 to $15.

Velarde’s Fruits, 2201 E. Cesar E. Chavez Ave., (323) 263-7276. Pineapple, banana, coconut and mango smoothies to die for. Also, fruit salads, tacos, tortas and tamales. Most dishes less than $5.

George’s Drive-In, 2311 E. Cesar E. Chavez Ave., (323) 268-3965. Burgers, chili dogs and outdoor seating.

El Pavo Bakery, 2327 E. Cesar E. Chavez Ave., (323) 266-2360. Mexican style bakery. Grab a tray and a pair of tongs and load up on cinnamon rolls, sugar cookies, danishes and more for 40 to 55 cents each.

La Serenata de Garibaldi, 1842 E. 1st St., (323) 265-2887. One of the best Mexican restaurants in town, this place serves impeccable seafood (and great margaritas, too). Brunch Saturday through Sunday, lunch and dinner daily. Entrees, $8 to $21.

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The Scoop

Where: Boyle Heights. A shopping area on East Cesar E. Chavez Avenue between Cummings and Soto streets.

Hours: Most stores are open from about 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily, except Sunday, when they open later and close earlier.

Parking: There is one-hour metered parking along East Cesar E. Chavez; two-hour metered street parking and a public lot with meters on Breed Street. Beware, parking enforcement is vigilant.

Stores: See accompanying story.

ATM: Bank of America, 2305 E. Cesar E. Chavez Ave. at Breed Street.