IN THE MOOD

Apricot season is brief, so don’t waste any time.

* Rock: Hans Rockenwagner’s individual apricot upside-down cake is sweet and sour, cold and hot. The poundcake is touched with cinnamon, the halved apricots caramelized on the outside, perfectly mushy inside. It’s served warm with homemade vanilla ice cream. (Upside-down apricot cake, $5.75.) Rock, Villa Marina Marketplace, 13455 Maxella Ave., Marina del Rey, (310) 822-8979.

* Zov’s Bistro & Bakery Cafe: The fresh apricot tart, perfect for two to split, is cookie crust filled with frangipani (vanilla pastry cream thick with almonds) and apricots in apricot glaze. Zov also makes apricot jam while the fruit is at its peak. (Fresh apricot tart, $6.50; apricot jam, $6.50.) Zov’s Bistro & Bakery, Enderle Center, 17440 E. 17th St., Tustin, (714) 838-8855.

* Michel Richard: If you just want a bite, get a petit four filled with vanilla custard along with a juicy apricot. The classic apricot has a simple sugar crust topped with halved fresh apricots, almond slices and apricot glaze. If you’d like a piece with your afternoon tea or after lunch, ask for it warm with a little whipped cream. The tart comes in three sizes, feeding four to 16. (Apricot petit four, 85 cents; apricot tart, $18 to $56.) Michel Richard, 310 S. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 275-5707.

* Axe: At the moment, chef Joanna Moore is making a luscious, homey brown butter apricot gratin, and you might find lamb skewered with rosemary, spring onions and pancetta served with poached apricots. (Brown butter and apricot gratin, $7; lamb skewers over couscous with poached apricots, $20.) Axe, 1009 Abbot Kinney, Venice, (310) 664-9787.

* Pastis: Save room for the apricot and red plum tart here. The apricots are sauteed in honey and the plums in brown sugar and star anise, then they’re spread on rich, flaky dough and baked. Your slice comes warm with creme fraiche. (Apricot and red plum tart, $6.) Pastis, 8114 Beverly Blvd., L.A., (323) 655-8822.

* Granita: The warm apricot crostata is a cream cheese-flavored dough spread with almond cream and a fresh apricot compote with a hint of lemon. It’s served with homemade vanilla bean ice cream melting over the top. (Apricot crostata , $7.50.) Granita, Malibu Colony Plaza, 23725 W. Malibu Road, Malibu, (310) 456-0488.