ORANGE COUNTY DINING

In these capsules of recent reviews, dollar signs indicate the average price of a meal for one, without beverages.

$: less than $10

$$: up to $20

$$$: up to $30

$$$$: more than $30.

* ALLEGRO: Allegro is a suburban Italian restaurant with a big-city sensibility: Tokyo, maybe, or even Milan. Chef Mario Petillo, formerly of Rafaello, doesn’t over-sauce his pastas and isn’t afraid of simplicity. There is a delicious rice and potato soup, a great Sicilian-style pasta made with tuna, eggplant, capers and olives and a long dessert list. The chairs could be comfier, but overall, this is quite a find. Allegro, 1160 N. Tustin Ave., Orange. (714) 639-7921. Lunch Mondays-Fridays, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner Mondays-Thursdays, 5:30-9 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, 5-10 p.m.; Sundays, 5-9 p.m. $$$

* THE BUNGALOW: The Bungalow specializes in trendy cocktails (a million fruit-juice-based martinis) and expensive, high-quality prime beef, the pride and joy being the rib-eye. But this toniest of Orange Coast steakeries also offers fine seafood (e.g. a decadent lobster tail), novel appetizers and a meaty rack of lamb. The Bungalow, 2441 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar. (949) 673-6585. Open for dinner daily. $$$

* CAFE TU TU TANGO: This cavernous, high-octane space is filled with art created on the premises by working artists. The eclectic, all-appetizer menu includes smoked ham and crab fritters, great rosemary lamb and Jim Beam wings and ribs. Live entertainment also surfaces (“spontaneously,” to quote management). Is this a taste of the 21st century? Cafe Tu Tu Tango, the Block at Orange. (714) 769-2222. Sundays-Fridays, 11 a.m.-midnight; Saturdays, 11 a.m.-1 a.m. $$

* CALIFORNIA CAFE: For a warm, energetic, contemporary-looking place with a bit of Asian influence on the menu, try California Cafe. For appetizers, try the chicken spring roll or the corn crisp calamari. For entrees, the crab-crusted halibut perfectly cooked and the “chicken under a brick” is redolent of garlic and rosemary. California Cafe, the Shops at Mission Viejo, (949) 347-9333. Lunch and dinner daily . $$

* CAPRICCIO: It doesn’t hold back on big flavors like garlic and capers. The massive pasta dishes are smothered with aromatic sauces and, with some dishes, savory shrimp, mussels and clams. A fine selection of daily seafood specials. Capriccio Italiano Ristorante. 25380 Marguerite Parkway, Mission Viejo. (949) 855-6866. Lunch Monday-Friday, dinner daily. $

* CHINA PALACE: China Palace has kept pace with changing tastes in its 20-year existence, while dozens, even hundreds of nearby restaurants have come and gone. This gaudy, tropical-themed place has a sushi bar and a Chinese kitchen that turns out dishes such as veal scaloppine with basil, fried soft-shell crab, Pekin duck and terrific fried calamari. China Palace, 2800 W. Coast Highway, Newport Beach. (949) 631-8031. Lunch Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner Sunday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5-11 p.m. $$

* COWBOY NEWPORT BEACH: The hot Cowboy seafood has been packing ‘em in from Day One. It has a hip, comforting American menu, plus a lively bar filled with the young and the restless of Newport Beach. The best dishes on the menu are wonderful fried jumbo shrimp, pan-roasted, cedar-plank salmon and the terrific Caesar. The place also has a nice wine list and, even better, no corkage fee. Cowboy Newport Beach, 850 Avocado Ave., Newport Beach. (949) 718-0187. Sundays, 4-11 p.m.; Mondays-Wednesdays, 5:30-10 p.m.; Thursdays-Saturdays, 5:30-11 p.m. $$$

* CUBAN PETE’S: You can call this an exotic family restaurant, one of the few within a stone’s throw of Disneyland. The menu, not surprisingly, tends toward Cuban, but there are also wonderful dishes of Puerto Rico, a combination of many influences. Don’t miss the ham croquettes, the mashed plantain dip mofongo, the roast leg of pork and the terrific guava cheesecake. The atmosphere is lively, the staff especially cheerful. Cuban Pete’s, 1050 W. Ball Road, Anaheim. (714) 490-2020. Dinner only Tuesdays-Wednesdays 5-10 p.m.; Thursdays-Saturdays, 5 p.m.-2 a.m.; Sundays, 3-10 p.m. $$$

* DARYA: For Persian cuisine in an elegant, fine-dining environment, South Coast Plaza Village has Darya. For entrees, try the seafood platter (especially the shrimp), the boneless chicken kebab, and the naderi kebab. Darya, South Coast Plaza Village, 1611 Sunflower Ave., Santa Ana, (714) 557-6600. Lunch and dinner daily . $$

* DIZZ’S AS IS: Dizz’s As Is has been around since the ‘70s--decades longer, if you count the two previous restaurants, Ford’s Cafe and Polly’s Pizza, that have occupied this location. Locals still line up to eat retro specialties like cheese-stuffed veal chop, steak Diane and swordfish Madagascar (menu changes daily), because seating is on a first-come, first-served basis. The Art Deco dining rooms are a hoot. Dizz’s As Is, 2794 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach. (949) 494-5250. Dinner only Tuesdays-Thursdays, 5:30 (seating for dinner at 6)-9:30 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, 5:30 (seating for dinner at 6)-10 p.m.; Sundays, 5 (seating for dinner at 5:30)-9:30 p.m. $$$

* EL CHOLO CANTINA: In its pleasant hacienda setting, El Cholo Cantina features a the full menu pared-down, CliffsNotes version of the El Cholo chain’s tried-and-true menu: cheese-heavy combo plates, nostalgia dishes like the Sonora-style enchilada topped with a fried egg--and, of course, those famous sweet, green-corn tamales (May through October only). El Cholo Cantina, 5465 Alton Parkway, Irvine. (949) 451-0044. Lunch and dinner daily. $

* EL FAROLITO: For 26 years, El Farolito has managed to please two kinds of Mexican food customers: those who want forceful dishes like birria and menudo and those who are looking for big margaritas and cheese-rich enchiladas and nachos. It’s a plain, friendly little place where even rice and beans are tasty. Check out the excellent steak milanesa. El Farolito, 201 S. Bradford Ave., Placentia. (714) 993-7880. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. $

* FIVE CROWNS: A theme restaurant that has been doing the Olde English inn thing so long it’s acquired a paradoxical authenticity. The food’s more than acceptable too. Salads and appetizers are always good, and you can’t go wrong ordering the roast duck or the prime rib. Five Crowns, 3801 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar. (949) 760-0331. Dinner daily. $$$

* FLORENCE ITALIAN CUISINE: Elegant but casual, Florence Italian Cuisine offers a wide array of Italian favorites with an emphasis on seafood. Try the lobster-filled ravioli de l’aragosta, the filet mignon, the lasagna and the linguine vongole. For dessert, the tiramisu and the spumoni. Florence Italian Cuisine 14210 Culver Drive (Heritage Plaza), Irvine. (949) 857-8265. Lunch and dinner daily; brunch Sundays. $$

* GRAND CAFE WOLFGANG PUCK: This is a dizzyingly eclectic spinoff of Puck’s successful cafe concept, including an express area, a mini-mart and a greatly expanded menu. Many starters, such as sushi, pad Thai and barbecued ribs, are Asian-inspired, to complement a menu of wood-fired pizzas, upscale pastas, rotisserie meats and creative main courses. Desserts, as one might imagine, are solidly appealing and seriously indulgent. Grand Cafe Wolfgang Puck, the Block at Orange. (714) 634-9653. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. All major credit cards. $$$

* IBIZA: After a tip of the hat to Spain, the jumping scene known as Ibiza mostly roves in the realm of Asian fusion cuisine. In fact, after the Flavors of Spain platter, go for Asian dishes such as seared ahi rolled in cracked pepper. And then order a cocktail and listen to the loud techno music. Ibiza, 209 Main St., Huntington Beach. (714) 536-7887. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. $$

* THE RITZ: Hans Prager’s ornately decorated restaurant, the Ritz, remains a bastion of Continental cuisine after more than two decades at Fashion Island. A well-dressed Newport crowd still turns out for retro faves such as lobster bisque and veal Oscar. Now there is a lovely outdoor garden area open during lunch and dinner. The Ritz, 880 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach. (949) 720-1800. Lunch Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner Monday-Thursday, 6-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5:30-11 p.m. $$$

* ROMA D’ITALIA: Tustin’s busy Roma D’Italia is an old-fashioned checked-tablecloth pizzeria/restaurant specializing in dishes with big, rich flavors, such as chicken d’Italia, which includes eggplant, ham, tomatoes, provolone and mushroom sauce. For something lighter, try the mixed seafood platter in a flavorful garlic white wine sauce. Roma D’Italia, 611 El Camino Real, Tustin. (714) 544-0273. Lunch and dinner daily. $$

* ROYAL KHYBER: In its new location, Royal Khyber is aiming to be O.C.’s top Indian restaurant, and it has all the tools--a gorgeous dining room, an innovative menu and the talents of chef Arun Puri in the kitchen. Some of the dishes need more oomph, but certainly not the terrific shrimp samosa, killer warm eggplant salad or wonderful lamb shank in spicy broth. Royal Khyber, Fine Indian Cuisine, 1621 W. Sunflower Ave., South Coast Plaza Village, Santa Ana. (714) 436-1010. Lunch Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner Sunday-Thursday, 5:30-9:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5:30-10:30 p.m.; Sunday brunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. $$$

* ROY’S: Roy’s benefits from the inventive Pacific Rim cooking of superstar Hawaii chef Roy Yamaguchi. But this isn’t the islands, and you won’t find many of the fresh Hawaiian fish or Japanized items that make the restaurant soar there. Don’t miss crunchy lobster pot stickers and peppered Chilean sea bass. There also is a signature chocolate souffle. The wine list, by the way, is priced for Honolulu, so consider bringing your own. Roy’s, 453 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach. (949) 640-7697. Dinner only Sunday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5-11 p.m. $$$

* SORRENTO GRILLE: David Wilhelm has turned the eatery into a trendy California grill and martini bar, but it remains a stalwart of the Laguna Beach dining scene. It’s an incredibly noisy place, but there’s a colorful local buzz from people who come to sip creative martinis in chilled, thick-stemmed glasses. Ahi carpaccio and a nice calamari-vegetable fritto misto with crunchy Parmesan breading are the top starters. Fish and seafoods are the best bets for main courses. Sorrento Grille, 370 Glenneyre St., Laguna Beach. (949) 494-8686. Dinner only Sundays-Thursdays, 5:30-10 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, 5:30-11 p.m. $$$

* SPAGHETTINI: With a name like Spaghettini Italian Grill and Jazz Club, it’s hard to know what to expect. Not improvisation, it turns out; the ingredients are of the highest quality, but they’re used in a cautious, lackluster way. Still, it has jazz, an open kitchen and dramatic low lighting, and the chocolate souffle cake is a knockout. Spaghettini Italian Grill and Jazz Club, 3005 Old Ranch Road, Seal Beach. (714) 960-6002. Lunch Monday-Friday; dinner nightly. $$

* S.W. SEAFOOD & BARBECUE RESTAURANT: Featuring a mind-numbing range of barbecue entrees (go with the pork) and seafood dishes (great shrimp and scallops). If you’re feeling particularly carnivorous, order the blossom platter, a heaping cold-cut sampler of pork, chicken, duck and jellyfish. S.W. Seafood & Barbecue Restaurant, 5406-A Walnut Ave., Irvine. (949) 262-0128. Lunch and dinner daily. $$

* TANGATA: Joachim Splichal’s museum-located restaurant is worth going to even if you aren’t interested in art. At Tangata, the famous chef is playing with Mexican themes as well as brunch ideas like a crab Benedict and light, “tall food” French toast. And Tangata can give you fast service when you need it. Tangata, Bowers Museum of Cultural Art, 2002 N. Main St., Santa Ana. (714) 550-0906. Open for lunch daily. $$

* TANGERINE GRILL: Though right across the street from Disneyland, Tangerine Grill is actually a decent California Cuisine restaurant. This means Italian touches like fresh mozzarella and an imported tangerine sorbetto, but it also grills a good Santa Maria-style strip steak and a pork chop in a successful cranberry Bourbon sauce. Tangerine Grill and Patio, 1030 W. Katella Ave., Anaheim, (714) 772-1186. lunch, breakfast and dinner daily. $$$

* TAPS: Taps is one of the most ambitious brew pub/restaurants ever to open in northeast O.C. It’s a 14,000-square-foot establishment featuring gleaming copper fermentation tanks, a centrally located oyster bar and a large, hangar-like dining room. Fresh seafoods, good side dishes and the dozen-plus house beers are best bets. Starters, pizzas and pastas are often either muddled or bland. Taps, 101 E. Imperial Highway, Brea. (714) 257-0101. Daily, 11 a.m.-11:30 p.m. $$$

* THAI PORN: This restaurant is named for its owner, Pornpan, whose name means “blessing.” But Isarn (northeast Thai) dishes are the real blessings here. This disarmingly simple restaurant is the place to come for raw green papaya salad (som tam), Thai barbecued chicken, the chopped meat salad larb or anything made with the homemade sour pork sausage. It’s all quite good. Thai Porn, 1739 W. La Palma Ave., Anaheim. (714) 956-8105. Daily, 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. $

* THANH MY: The big deal at Thanh My, one of Little Saigon’s oldest Vietnamese restaurants, is bo 7 mon, beef served in seven courses such as salad, soup, rice paper wrap and meatloaf. The hot pots, cooked at your table, are also good, though messy to eat. Late groovers, take note--Thanh My stays open till 1:30 a.m. Thanh My, 9553 Bolsa Ave., Westminster. (714) 531-9540. Lunch and dinner daily . $

* TIRAMISU: From the street, Tiramisu looks like a jewel box; inside, it’s all restrained elegance in earth tones. Many of the best dishes, notably the thin-crust pizzas and whole fish, come from a wood-burning oven. The pastas are fine when the kitchen goes easy on the sauce. And yes, the tiramisu, available in three flavors, is the star attraction. Tiramisu, 2325 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar. (949) 673-8444. Lunch Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner Sunday-Thursday, 5-9:45 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5-10:45 p.m. $$$

* TOMMY BAHAMA’S: The Caribbean meets Walt Disney at Tommy Bahama’s Tropical Cafe, a spiffy new restaurant with an attached clothing store. The pricey menu includes conch fritters, mango shrimp salad and other island-inspired fare. There is a lively bar scene, a delightful outdoor patio and a live steel band every evening. Tommy Bahama’s Tropical Cafe, 854 Avocado Ave., Newport Beach. (949) 760-8686. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. $$$

* TROQUET: A polished French bistro in a mall? Sure, when Aubergine’s Liza and Tim Goodell are behind the operation and the mall is South Coast Plaza. Try the celery root puree garnished with duck confit and pears and Maryland crab cakes with a smoky chipotle aioli and fried capers. Troquet, South Coast Plaza, 3333 Bristol Ave., Costa Mesa. (714) 708-6865. $$$