Salmon Swims Again

Salmon, whether poached, broiled or grilled, makes for an easy weeknight meal accompanied by pilaf or couscous with a vegetable on the side. Plan ahead and cook extra salmon for a warming fish chowder later in the week.

In this recipe, the leftover, flaked salmon stays moist because it is added right when the chowder is finished and just heated through. I like to skillet-toast the fresh corn for an added depth of flavor, and fresh herbs are always my preference over dried ones.

Head to the deli case to buy single strips of bacon; otherwise, buy a package and freeze the rest. If you are into trimming calories, know you can use as little as one strip of bacon and still get that bacon taste, and milk can be substituted for the half-and-half--just don’t let the chowder come to a boil.

Salmon and Corn Chowder

Active Work Time: 15 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 35 minutes

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2 ears corn

1/4 teaspoon salt

3 strips bacon, finely chopped

1 onion, chopped

2 baking potatoes, peeled and cut in 1/2-inch cubes

2 cups bottled clam juice

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

2 cups half-and-half

6 ounces cooked salmon, flaked

1/3 cup minced fresh parsley

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Freshly ground pepper

Stand each ear of corn upright on a work surface, and with a sharp knife, cut downward along the corn to remove the kernels. You should have about 11/2 cups.

Heat a nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the corn and cook until the kernels are lightly browned and toasted, about 3 minutes. Stir in the salt, then remove the pan from the heat and set aside.

Cook the bacon in a heavy soup pot until crisp, about 5 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat from the pan. Add the onion and cook over medium heat for 1 minute, then cover and cook until soft but not brown, about 3 minutes longer. Add the potatoes, clam juice and thyme; bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 10 to 12 minutes.

Add the corn, bacon, half-and-half and salmon to the soup pot. Simmer until heated through, about 5 minutes. Add the parsley and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.

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6 servings. Each serving: 280 calories; 468 mg sodium; 53 mg cholesterol; 15 grams fat; 7 grams saturated fat; 26 grams carbohydrates; 13 grams protein; 2.50 grams fiber.

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Morgan is co-author of “Cooking For the Week: Leisurely Weekend Cooking for Easy Weekday Meals,” (Chronicle Books, $18.95).

Plate from Sideboard, Seal Beach.