Cabs: To Splurge, or Not to Splurge

My son is getting married. That won’t mean a thing to anyone but family, but most of you wine lovers can sympathize with the big question I’m facing: What do I serve at the wedding dinner?

Sparkling wine, of course, with the appetizers. But not some $100 bottle of Dom Perignon or Cristal. If there is going to be a splurge, it will be for a red wine, specifically a Cabernet Sauvignon.

But, which one? That is the question that dear old Dad has yet to answer. Do I choose cost-consciously? Do I go whole hog and let the credit card company help finance this extravaganza? Or do I choose something in between--something of good quality but with a price that’s short of heart-stopping?

Here are some I’m considering.

* * * 1997 Chappellet Vineyard “Pritchard Hill Estate,” Napa Valley, $110. This is a leading contender for “Wine of the Year” and thus one of the leading candidates to separate me from a bundle of cash. It is a deep, compelling, layered wine with stunning aromas of cassis, oak, toast and tea, a wine of unabashed richness yet careful construction. Its flavors are equally complex, and despite ample tannins that will allow it to age for decades, it is remarkably tasty even now. Ultimately, I suspect I may look lower on the pricing ladder when it comes to quenching the thirsts of scores of celebrants, but no wine would taste better than this one. Buy it if you can find it and afford it.

1997 Columbia Crest Winery “Reserve Red Wine,” Columbia Valley, $22. This blend of 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot and 22% Cabernet is tasty and it won’t break the bank. It has Merlot-like suppleness and richness tied to a good bit of ripe cherry fruitiness that should appeal to everyone.

1997 Gallo Sonoma “Barelli Creek Vineyard,” Alexander Valley, $25. This big, somewhat muscular wine is solidly Cabernet but not too expensive. It has a young Cab’s smoky oak, dried cherry and noticeably tannic personality. It is not especially refined at this point, though aging will certainly help. Still, it would go well with a charcoal-grilled sirloin.

$ 1997 Gallo of Sonoma, Sonoma County, $11. This is hardly a celebratory wine, but it is extraordinarily attractive for the money. It is nice and fruity and has an attractive, rich earthy note.

* * 1998 Liparita “Enlace,” Napa Valley, $48. Equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this “tweener” is not as juicy as a top-notch Merlot but more accessible than a pure Cabernet. It has the depth and structure of a “serious” wine and generous black cherry and currant fruit. Like many fine Cabernets I’ve tasted over the year at similar quality and price (Beaulieu’s Tapestry stands out among them), it proves you can get extremely good wine without resorting to three-digit spending.

* * 1998 Joseph Phelps Vineyards “Insignia,” Napa Valley, $100. This wine can be found for as little as $80 from time to time and, at that price, it’s a pretty good buy. Even in this vintage, when it is only very good and not mind-blowing, Insignia remains a supple, rich, sophisticated wine that is at once rich and deep on the palate and somehow manages to have ample tannins without any coarseness. It is the kind of showy wine that will make everyone notice how good it really is.

* * 1997 Trefethen Vineyards “Halo,” Napa Valley, $125. Though it’s terribly expensive, I cannot ignore Halo because it is so darn good. It’s a ripe, deep, classic Cabernet focusing on still-developing currant fruit flavors, filled out by rich notes of vanilla, cocoa and coffee, though it still might be a bit tannic. Moreover, its festive label is a work of art in itself. Every time I think I have safely put the wine out of my mind, it creeps back in because it is a spectacular wine in a spectacular package and just cries out for service at special eventnic

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Symbols

* * * A world-class wine, superb by any measure, the top 1% to 2% of all wines tasted.

* * An exceptional wine, well worth the effort to find, 10% to 12% of wines tasted.

* An admirable wine, tasty, focused, attractive, about 25% of wines tasted.

No Rating: The best are quite pleasant and can be good buys when moderately priced.

$ Good value for the money.

x Below average quality, to be avoided.

*

This column is based on tastings conducted by Connoisseur’s Guide to California Wine, a monthly newsletter devoted to the critical review of California and West coast wines. Readers of The Times may obtain a sample copy by sending their name and address to: CGCW, P.O. Box V, Alameda, CA 94501, by calling or faxing (510) 865-3150 or by e-mailing CGCW@aol.com.