Lost Coast Emerges From the Fog

California may have a mighty long coast and millions of acres of wilderness, but it has only one wilderness coast: the Lost Coast in Mendocino County.

The Lost Coast is so rough that it thwarted even the state’s road engineers, forcing them to route the Redwood Highway (U.S. 101) more than 20 miles inland.

Towering shoreline cliffs rise abruptly like volcanoes. Black sand beaches are strewn with driftwood and small stones. The mouths of canyons fill with fog, which nourishes redwoods farther inland.

The south side of the Lost Coast, which we’ll explore this week, is called Sinkyone Wilderness State Park. This year Sinkyone celebrates its 25th anniversary.

Here you’ll find the Lost Coast Trail, one of my favorite hikes. Foxgloves, monkey flowers, ferns and blackberry bushes line the path, which is popular with a magnificent herd of Roosevelt elk. The sky fills with gulls and pelicans, and sea lions and harbor seals gather at Little Jackass Cove. In winter and early spring, gray whales pass by.

The Lost Coast Trail is strenuous but rewarding. Give yourself at least two days and two nights to travel between Usal Beach and Bear Harbor. There are a couple of ways to go; either way, hikers will find themselves moving between deep forested canyons and prominent ridges. On fog-free days, the views are spectacular.

The trail empties onto Briceland Road, which continues north toward the Needle Rock Visitor Center, an early 1900s ranch house where you can register for a campsite. You’ll cross terraced terrain on the way to Whale Gulch.

Beyond Whale Gulch Creek, the path becomes a rugged track that climbs Chemise Mountain and intersects the trails of King Range National Conservation Area.

Hikers break up the nearly 22-mile journey by camping along the way. A dozen campsites lie along Lost Coast Trail in northern Sinkyone Wilderness State Park. Most of the camps are near creeks (remember to purify the water) and offer easy access to secluded black sand beaches. They have picnic tables, fire pits and primitive toilets.

The campsites along the Lost Coast Trail are accessible solely by foot. Vehicles are allowed only at Usal Beach at the southern end.

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For more of John McKinney’s tips, visit www.thetrailmaster.com.