1998 Villa di Capezzano Carmignano

The fruit in this terrific Tuscan red jumps right out of the glass, carrying with it scents of dried rose petals, cherries and tobacco. Though Carmignano is just 10 miles northwest of Florence, the wine made here has an earthier, darker tone than the wines from the Chianti region. That’s because there’s always a little Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend; Carmignano was doing this decades before Supertuscans like Tignanello and Sassacaia.

What I love about this Carmignano is its firm structure and silky Pinot-like texture. It may be the best Villa de Capezzano has ever made.

The tone is autumnal, perfect for this time of year. Have it with a warming bowl of pasta e fagioli garnished with a thread of green-gold Tuscan olive oil. It’s a wonderful match with a chicken liver ragu for pasta, or chicken liver crostini, as well as roast chicken and meats.

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Region: Tuscany

Price: About $22

Style: Supple Sangiovese-

Cabernet Sauvignon blend.

Food it goes with: Beans, pasta e fagioli, roast chicken, chicken liver ragu for pasta -- and roasts.

Where you’ll find it: Beverage Warehouse in Marina del Rey, (310) 306-2822; Du Vin in West Hollywood, (310) 855-1161; Grape Connections in Point Loma/San Diego, (619) 523-6441; Mel & Rose Liquor & Deli in West Hollywood, (323) 655-5557; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454; and Wine House in Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731.