Christmas stollen

Dense, moist

Zov’s Bistro sells a dense and exceedingly moist stollen. The recipe makes a large, 2-pound loaf that includes apricots, currants, raisins, candied cherries and almonds, all marinated in brandy. Walnuts and pecans are also added to the batter, and right before the stollen goes in the oven, a slug of almond paste is inserted into the center. (Christmas stollen, $17.95.)

Zov’s Bistro & Bakery Cafe, Enderle Center, 17440 E. 17th St., Tustin, (714) 838-8855.

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On cakey side

The secret of LA Bread’s light, cakey stollen is butter and a special spice mixture that includes cardamom. Of course, baker Knuth Kahler also puts almonds, raisins and lots of orange peel into his 1-pound loaf, balancing the dense, sweet marzipan filling. Serve a slice heated and spread with butter. (Christmas stollen, $14.)

LA Bread, 3119 Los Feliz Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 662-8600.

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Rum-soaked

Sumi Chang makes Europane’s moist, fruity stollen by mixing rum-soaked dried fruits -- apricots, cranberries, raisins, currants and dates -- into the classic German batter. Then she puts on a bit of citron along with a thin layer of amaretto almond paste across the middle of the loaf. It comes in three sizes -- half-, three-quarter and 1-pound. (Stollen, $6, $12 and $14.)

Europane, 950 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, (626) 577-1828.

-- Jessica Strand