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Cool Evening, Warm Salad

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SPECIAL TO THE TIMES

Flexible and forgiving--that’s this warm cabbage salad.

Inspired by the classic French frisee aux lardons, but with cabbage in my fridge instead of chicory, I made this main-dish “salad” on a cool evening when I wanted something warm. Cabbage is hearty and sweet, especially when boiled briefly before sauteing to remove the sulfurous smell.

Medium-boiled eggs are easier to make than poached and still have slightly runny yolks to enrich the dressing. But if yours turn out hard-boiled, no matter.

Same with the cabbage and onions; a longer cooking time just makes them sweeter. This dish is equally good without meat. Serve with thick slices of toasted country bread.

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Warm Cabbage Salad

Active Work Time: 15 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 30 minutes

Core the cabbage, if desired.

Sea salt

1 (1 3/4-pound) green cabbage, halved, each half cut into 6 wedges

3 to 4 tablespoons fruity olive oil, divided

1/4 pound thick-sliced ham or slab bacon, cut into 1/2-inch cubes, optional

1 red onion, thinly sliced

Freshly ground pepper

5 eggs

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon water

Bring water to boil in a wide, shallow pot. Add 1 tablespoon of salt and the cabbage, and cover. Once the water returns to a boil, cook the cabbage just until its color brightens, about 2 minutes, then drain.

Dry the pot, add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and heat it over medium-high heat. Add the ham, if using, and cook until browned, about 2 minutes. If using the bacon, skip the oil and cook the diced bacon until crisp, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the onion, turn the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion softens, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the drained cabbage and salt and pepper to taste, and stir, scraping up any brown bits (there’ll be enough moisture in the cabbage to do this). Cook, uncovered, until the cabbage is tender and lightly browned, or until you finish making the rest of dinner or about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, place the eggs in a covered saucepan of water, bring to a boil and boil 2 minutes. From start to finish, this should take about 10 minutes if the eggs are cold. Drain the eggs, run under cold water and peel.

In a small bowl, whisk together the mustard, lemon juice, 3/4 teaspoon of salt, generous grinds of pepper and the tablespoon of water until well blended. Whisk in 2 to 3 tablespoons of olive oil. Place the cabbage mixture in a shallow serving bowl or on a platter. Roughly chop the eggs (the yolks should be a little runny) and place them on top of the cabbage mixture. Pour the dressing over all. Add salt and pepper if desired.

4 servings. Each serving: 242 calories; 212 mg sodium; 258 mg cholesterol; 17 grams fat; 3 grams saturated fat; 14 grams carbohydrates; 10 grams protein; 5.56 grams fiber.

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MENU

Warm Cabbage Salad

Toasted Country Bread

Fresh Fruit

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GAME PLAN

30 minutes before: Bring water to boil for cabbage, cut cabbage, slice onion, dice meat.

20 minutes before: Boil cabbage, cook meat and onion, add boiled cabbage. Put eggs on to cook.

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10 minutes before: Make dressing, peel and slice eggs.

5 minutes before: Assemble salad, toast bread.

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SHOPPING LIST

Country Bread

Cabbage

Ham or bacon, optional

Fresh fruit

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STAPLES

Eggs

Dijon mustard

Lemon

Olive oil

Red onion

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