Santa Ynez Valley for a Song

I had just finished the first bite of a smoky barbecue tri-tip on crusty sourdough and taken a sip of a Rhone red when a flash of blue caught my eye, and I saw a bird land on a nearby oak tree.

“Look!” I said to my husband. “The bluebird of happiness.” Given our contentment at that moment, the bird seemed an apt symbol, even though I knew it wasn’t really a bluebird but a blue jay. This wasn’t about ornithology, though; it was about pleasure--and about a challenge we had set for ourselves.

Terry and I wanted to spend a lovely weekend without spending a fortune in the increasingly upscale Santa Ynez Valley, a cluster of towns--Santa Ynez, Los Olivos, Solvang, Buellton and Ballard--about half an hour north of Santa Barbara. The valley, with its bucolic vineyards, horse ranches and old oaks, is one of our favorite getaway spots. But room rates at the high-end lodgings, including the new Santa Valley Inn, are in the $200-to-$400-a-night range.

What about folks like us, who might have a taste for champagne and caviar but a budget more suited for beer and pretzels? Is there any hope?

Usually when we visit the Santa Ynez Valley, we stay in less costly Santa Maria or Lompoc, or we just make a day trip of it. Once we stayed at an inexpensive motel in Solvang, the capital of Danish kitsch, and hated the experience.

But in January, with saving money foremost in our minds, we gave the town another try. The Solvang Gardens Lodge caught my eye partly because its Internet site showed off-season rates starting at $49 per night. The lodge was built in 1950, modeled after a Danish farmhouse, and recently had come under new ownership. The rooms were being upgraded one at a time, and judging from the Web site’s pictures, they looked pretty.

When I called to make a reservation, all the rooms overlooking the lodge’s back garden were taken. But the reservations clerk said one of the big suites in front was available; it wasn’t remodeled yet, but at $89, it sounded worth a gamble.

Two hours after leaving our Los Angeles home, we pulled into the circular drive of the lodge, which is a couple of blocks from the main tourist area of Solvang--another plus in my book. I held my breath as Terry unlocked the door to our room. It was a full suite, exactly as described: a spacious living room, complete kitchen, separate bedroom and big bathroom. And, also as described, it had not been remodeled. The furniture was vintage ‘50s but homey.

Later in the weekend we peeked into some of the renovated units. With cheery fabrics and new marble bathrooms, they were inviting. The flower garden in back was even larger and more pleasant than it appeared on the Web. I could easily imagine sipping a glass of wine out there on a summer evening.

But this was winter. So before setting out for dinner at a Santa Ynez steakhouse called the Red Barn, we wrapped ourselves in scarves, hats and gloves.

The Red Barn is an informal place with red-checked tablecloths, steer horns over the fireplace, and waitresses and patrons in Western garb. The hostess gave us a table right by the hearth.

The relish plate--carrot sticks, olives and hot peppers--was another flashback to the ‘50s, and the steaks that followed were satisfying enough to please the most ravenous cowboy.

The next morning started on a cost-conscious note: continental breakfast, included in the hotel’s nightly rate.

That was followed by a short drive to the town of Santa Ynez, which leans heavily on its Old West heritage. Some of the buildings date back to the 1800s, so the place can feel like a John Wayne movie set.

Mixed among the tack and feed-and-grain stores are shops for home furnishings, antiques and clothing. Sales were everywhere, and I couldn’t resist a cozy red fleece jacket at 25% off. (Yes, we were trying to economize, but isn’t buying on sale a sound financial practice too?)

Our walk took us right by the Santa Ynez Inn, built to resemble a Victorian mansion, which opened in October. It is one of the most expensive places in the valley; its 14 rooms start at $245 and climb to $395 a night.

We were curious to see what that kind of tariff might get, so we stepped into the ornate lobby, rich with etched glass and gleaming woodwork. We also peeked into the breakfast room and the elegant parlor, where guests partake of wine and hors d’oeuvres in the evening. But we couldn’t see the guest rooms; they were booked.

It was luxurious, that’s for sure, but certainly not as homey as our lodge, I told myself, firmly suppressing a twinge of envy. The price seemed high, and I wasn’t too taken with the Victorian frills anyway, which seemed a little fussy for the rustic wine-country setting.

We moved on, soon reaching the Santa Ynez Historical Society Museum, which turned out to be one of the highlights of our ramble. At the museum’s Parks-Janeway Carriage House, more than 35 horse-drawn vehicles were on display: stagecoaches, a hearse, even a surrey with a fringe on top. It was a fun glimpse of life before the automobile. The well-to-do had a vehicle for every occasion, from an elegant upholstered phaeton for evenings on the town to a lady’s delicate meadow cart for springtime pleasure drives to a plain wicker cart for conveying the governess and kids.

We felt humdrum getting back into our all-purpose ’96 Integra. But our trusty Acura led us toward our favorite money-saving strategy: the picnic.

We fetched sandwiches at the Corner Store in Santa Ynez, then drove to a sweet little duck pond at Beckman Winery, where we sometimes picnic in summer. This time of year, we found the landscape had a Van Gogh kind of beauty, with rows of gnarled, leafless grapevines casting stark shadows in the intense sunlight. (Visitors who aren’t as familiar with the region’s wineries can get a free map from the Santa Barbara County Vintners’ Assn.; see the budget box for contact information.)

How were we to cap off our first day on the beer-and-pretzel budget? With beer and pretzels, of course.

The day’s final destination was a brewery in Buellton. Firestone Walker Brewing prides itself on traditional European-style beers aged in oak barrels. In its handsome wood-paneled tap room, we sampled a lager, two ales and a porter ($5 per person). After a taste of sample No. 3--the dark, richly flavored Double Barrel Ale--my husband declared, “Now, that’s one tasty beer!” We liked it so much we bought a case, congratulating ourselves that the bulk purchase saved us 25% off the regular retail cost--certainly another fiscally responsible move.

We had been so good at economizing all day that we splurged for dinner at Cabernet Bistro, a Solvang restaurant whose inviting interior resembles a mountain chalet and whose French-born chef has won praise from critics. Though not cheap, the entrees are reasonably priced (about $17 to $27). Everything was delectable: an appetizer of plump Santa Barbara mussels in puff pastry; entrees of duckling in peppercorn sauce and a special called “wedding of Neptune,” layers of salmon and orange roughy in a light cream-and-caper sauce, both complemented with wine; and creme brulee for dessert.

The weather the next day was nice enough to let us combine three of our favorite pastimes: wine tasting, hiking and picnicking. Visitors who pay for wine tasting at either Curtis or Firestone winery receive a glass that serves as a ticket for both. A short hiking trail connects these sister properties, with picnic spots at each end.

We stopped first at Solvang’s El Rancho MarketPlace, where tri-tips were sizzling on the outdoor oak barbecue. Provisions in hand, we headed to Curtis Winery, where $7 buys each person a generous sampling of wine and a goblet to tote to Firestone.

We particularly liked Curtis’ 1997 Heritage Cuvee, a blend of five red Rhone varietals. Cases of this wine were on sale for 50% off, so Terry whipped out the credit card. Another shrewd fiscal maneuver, or at least that’s what we told ourselves.

We pressed one bottle into service for a picnic on the winery’s knoll with a sweeping view of vineyards. It was here I spotted the blue-feathered bird. All seemed right--the food, the view, the wine. Our hike and a tasting at Beckman Winery lay ahead, but already we had put together a fine weekend. We had eaten well, replenished our larder and added to my wardrobe without breaking the bank. I like to think our financial advisor would have been proud.

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Budget for Two

Solvang Gardens Lodge, two nights...$195.80

Dinner, Red Barn...73.05

Picnic lunches, two days, including bottle of wine 34.98

Admission, museum...4.00

Dinner, Cabernet Bistro 99.45

Tasting fees...26.50

Gas...13.38

FINAL TAB...$447.16

Solvang Gardens Lodge, 293 Alisal Road, Solvang,

CA 93463; (805) 688-4404, fax (805) 688-9975, www.solvangardens.com.

Santa Barbara County Vintners’ Assn., P.O. Box 1558, Santa Ynez, CA 93460; (800) 218-0881 or (805) 688- 0881, fax (805) 686-5881, www.sbcountywines.com.

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Carolyn Miller is a freelance writer in Los Angeles.