Tasting the good life in Mendoza

My Argentine friend, Carolina Fuller, and I took a detour down a dirt road. A whitewashed warehouse with a tangerine-colored roof rose above rows of leafy vines. In front of massive wood doors stood Federico Cassone, owner and winemaker at Finca la Florencia’s winery. Behind him wine, crackers and cheese were laid out on a rustic wood table.

After hearing of my enthusiasm for his family’s wine, his father, Eduardo, led me to an adjacent gallery of oak casks and withdrew wine from one.

Federico’s mother provided a glass. Eduardo filled it and urged me to try a Gran Reserve Malbec 2000. I took a sip. Pondered. Then reached for my wallet, offering him all the cash I had. Everyone laughed.

It felt as if I were in the home of old friends.

I found the warm intimacy of my tasting experience at Finca la Florencia over and over again on my trip last January to the Mendoza wine country, spread before the foothills of the Andes, about 350 miles northwest of Buenos Aires. I sipped wine with vineyard owners, took tours led by winemakers and tasted some startlingly fine wines for rock-bottom prices. The region is only now gearing up for tourists, and therein lies its charm. Tours and tastings here tend to be informal and personal, often led by the winemakers themselves. Bistros and winery gift shops are just starting to pop up.

Mendoza produces three-quarters of Argentina’s wine, and until recently most of it was consumed domestically. Argentina’s per capita wine consumption is third in the world, behind Italy and France; the country is fifth in wine production.

Summer days here are hot and humid, and winters are cool, making the region ideal for growing wine grapes, especially the intense malbec, Mendoza’s signature varietal. This black grape, brought from France decades ago, was considered second-rate there, but Argentines have cultivated it to a level unequaled by the French. On Wine Spectator magazine’s 100-point scale, 24 Argentine bottlings are ranked 90 or above.

But it’s not only the quality that makes Argentine wines so attractive. It’s also their low price, and that’s due partly to Argentina’s economic crisis and the recent devaluation of its peso.

After I planned my trip, my third vacation there in eight years, Argentina’s economy tumbled, and riots broke out in some cities. But Argentine friends assured me Mendoza was calm and safe, so last December I flew from Los Angeles into Santiago, Chile, about 200 miles west of Mendoza and closer than the capital of Buenos Aires. I then took a 45-minute flight over the Andes to Mendoza.

On the advice of those same friends, I bypassed the city of Mendoza in favor of a spa hotel tucked into the mountains to the south. I followed Route 7 out of the city, weaving across flatlands that reminded me of southern France. After 18 miles, the road led into a mountain pass and the Hotel Termas de Cacheuta. It was out of the way for winery visits, but for peace and relaxation it had no equal. My double room cost 96 pesos per person -- now about $27 -- including meals and access to the hotel’s spa complex, with its stone-grotto sauna, volcanic mud baths, hydro-massage, thermal pools and professional masseurs.

On my first morning I prepared for four days of winery visits. Most of the local wineries, or bodegas, are clustered around two suburbs of Mendoza: Maipu, about eight miles southeast of downtown, and Lujan, about 10 miles south.

One can visit wineries on bus tours, which generally stop at vineyards along the “wine route,” devised by wineries and the local government to guide visitors through the area’s 100-plus bodegas. Another option is to hire an English-speaking guide. But I preferred to tour in a rented car at my own pace.

I relied on the suggestions of guidebooks and locals to choose the wineries I would visit. Of the 16 I saw, 10 were suggestions from locals and only two were disappointments.

First on my list was Fabre Montmayou, a medium-size establishment purchased eight years ago by French winemakers. Soledad Guevara, Fabre’s English-speaking tour guide, led me through the facility, a handsome redbrick and terra-cotta structure. We ended at the tasting bar, which is in the warehouse amid crates and bottling machines.

Fabre makes an excellent, earthy 1999 Malbec, although I preferred its 2000 Chardonnay, among the best whites I had in Argentina.

Next was Bodegas Leoncio Arizu, a family-owned winery a mile north of Lujan’s main plaza; its wines are marketed under the name Luigi Bosca. One of the owners, Gustavo Arizu, who spoke fluent English, led me on a tour, ending at a third-floor tasting room in a majestic tower, where I sampled the ’99 Malbec -- for me, the winery’s finest.

Afterward I drove to the nearby Bodegas Nieto Senetiner. I’d read about its home-cooked lunch after the 12:30 p.m. tour, and I didn’t want to miss it. A table had been set under a sagging tree, with a heartwarming view of the vineyards and snowcapped mountains. Behind me, gardens and Spanish colonial-style buildings completed the picture. Marcela Bartolini, who oversees the facility, joined me for lunch.

The cook told me the delicious meat empanadas were made from scratch. The brisket-like asado, pork blood sausages and caramel ice cream had all been prepared that morning.

Nieto is owned by one of Argentina’s wealthiest families, the Perez Compancs, who purchased the winery four years ago. The 1999 Syrah I had with my lunch was as breathtaking as the view.

Most vineyard tours end at 4 or 5 p.m., so I had time for one stop after lunch. I drove four miles south of Lujan to Norton, one of Argentina’s best-known vintners. A rococo-style staircase at the entrance led to a second-floor tasting room with commanding views of the Andes. But the wines failed to live up to their reputation, as did the reception. No owner or winemaker here. Norton was one of the few disappointments of my trip.

Next morning, I drove through Lujan to two tiny wineries that Marcela had recommended. Viniterra was conveniently located on Route 40, the national highway linking Mendoza to San Rafael to the south. It is owned by the Senetiner family, who set up shop across town after selling the winery still bearing their name. In the tasting room I found Flavio Senetiner, who went over his wines for me. His family brings more than 80 years of experience to their new operation, and it shows: His selection was the best I found. The Chardonnay/Semillon, Viognier and Pinot Grigio whites were dry and sophisticated. The reds -- Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet/Syrah -- were all smooth and full-bodied.

Curiosity drove me to my last stop for the day, Bodegas Lopez, one of Mendoza’s major wineries; I had seen its handsome Spanish-style palazzo in the tourist office’s brochure. In its tasting room, as elegant as many in Napa or Sonoma, I was greeted by one of the owners, Eduardo Lopez. So few Americans had been visiting the winery last winter that when he heard I was there, he instructed his staff to bring out all the wines -- I liked his Montchenot, a blend of malbec, cabernet sauvignon and merlot -- and he sat down with me to talk about each one. I later learned that the Lopez family’s hospitality is legendary in Mendoza.

By this time I’d had more wine than I usually consume in a month, and I needed a break. Mendoza’s other major attraction is adventure tourism, so I spent the afternoon rafting on the Mendoza River and enjoying the spa at my hotel. By evening I felt pampered and cleansed.

Architectural standouts

The next morning I was off to Maipu and La Rural, a combination winery and museum on the grounds of a turn-of-the-century ranch. The museum was mostly a scrappy room filled with wine-related antiques, but I was more impressed by the dozen massive French oak barrels flanking a corridor that led to the tasting room.

I skipped the 45-minute tour and went right for the wines. Glasses of La Rural’s economical San Felipe line were free (with the tour), but I found them too sweet. (La Rural was the only winery that charged for tasting.) For a few dollars more I tried the more refined Familia Rutini line. Even at 30 pesos (now $8.50) a bottle, the ’98 Merlot was hardly worth making room in my suitcase for.

I finished the afternoon at the region’s most renowned winery, built in 1884. Escorihuela is on every bus tour and is conveniently located a mile and a half south of downtown Mendoza. It houses one of the city’s finest restaurants and a small art gallery.

Winemaker Estela Perinetti was on hand in the tasting room, as was a display of Carcassonne Clasico, a less expensive line I tried at the Hotel Termas, and Escorihuela Gascon, a premium line sold in the U.S. Estela initially poured a 1997 Gascon, a blend of malbec, cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Noting my less-than-enthusiastic smile, she brought out a wine she created: Escorihuela Gascon Reserve 2000, a limited-edition blend of malbec, cabernet sauvignon and merlot. That one won a space in my suitcase.

Afterward I walked across the winery’s courtyard to Escorihuela’s restaurant, 1884. Smart and hip in decor, the place is usually packed but was empty when I was there. My meal of corn tamales, salad, banana chocolate parfait and wine was excellent, elegantly presented and cost only 30 pesos.

That evening I drove more than an hour south of Mendoza to a winery with a lodge that Eduardo Lopez had recommended for its spectacular setting and architecture. Bodegas Salentein has a comfy ranch-style posada, where I stayed my final night in Mendoza Province. I drove up a dirt road to find a rustic four-room ranch house and an adjacent casita that sleeps six in groves of trees. Two Argentines, an Englishman and a Swede were having dinner as I walked in, and they invited me to join them. Soon I was dining on beef empanadas, followed by beef tenderloin in a refined mushroom wine sauce, accompanied by Salentein wines.

About 10 the next morning I arrived at the Salentein winery, a cross-shaped brick warehouse nestled in the shadow of the Andes. In its enormous interior, about 2,000 bottles in metal containers surround a columned sanctuary whose casks encircle a mosaic star. Light from an open arcade provides church-like illumination from above. It felt ancient and holy, like a Roman temple.

With a visitor center, wine bar and gift shop nearing completion, the winery is positioning itself to be a major tourist attraction. The only disappointment was the wines. None was as memorable as Salentein’s posada.

Later I drove north to the area’s other architectural marvel, Catena Zapata, a majestic yellow Mayan temple set in a sea of vineyards only 20 minutes south of Lujan. Catena’s interior is as eye-catching as its exterior. Gilded staircases crisscross toward a glass dome. Below, lacquered doors lead to sleek tasting rooms, the most dramatic of which holds a panoramic window that looks onto rows of casks illuminated from above.

The wines reflect the family’s 100 years of experience. Wine expert Robert Parker gives Catena Zapata’s 1999 Chardonnay a 93 on his 100-point scale. And the winery’s 2000 Chardonnay was indeed rich, aromatic and smooth. The 2001 Malbec, used mostly in blends, was the stuff of dreams. But I couldn’t purchase any bottles because Catena Zapata exports all of its production.

At Carolina’s urging, I hit one more winery before catching the plane back to Chile: Chandon, a division of the French champagne company.

Having been to the Chandon winery in Napa Valley, I was skeptical about its quality. But Chandon Argentina’s winemaker, Manuel Louzada, is a man at the top of his game. I couldn’t resist asking for more of the Cuvee Reserve. Even more dazzling was the Baron B. Rose, containing 5% malbec. Two bottles of this gem took up the remaining room in my suitcase.

Months after my return home, I ordered four more bottles shipped to Los Angeles for the wedding of a close friend. After one sip, my friends clamored to find out how they could get a case. At $6 a bottle, they knew it was a steal.

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Sipping in Argentina’s wine country

GETTING THERE:

From LAX: LanChile and United fly direct (with one stop) to Santiago, Chile, the nearest major airport to Mendoza. American, Delta and VARIG have connecting flights (change of planes). Restricted round-trip fares begin at $689.

TELEPHONES:

To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 54 (country code for Argentina), 2 (local area code) and the number.

WHERE TO STAY:

Hotel Termas de Cacheuta, International Route 7, Km. 38, Lujan; 62-449-0152, fax 62-449-0153. Doubles $27 per person, including two spa circuits per day and meals but not beverages.

Posada Salentein, Route 89, near Los Arboles, Tunuyan, Mendoza; 62-242-4722, www.bodegasalentein.com or www.salenteintourism.com. For reservations, contact Carol at Casa Salentein in Mendoza; 61-423-8514, fax 61-423-8565. Doubles $70 per person, including all meals with wine, or $55 for room, breakfast and dinner.

VISITING WINERIES:

Bodegas Fabre Montmayou, R. Saenz Pena, sn/Vistalba, Lujan, Mendoza; 61-498-2330, fax 61-498-2511. Tours in English 9 a.m.-1 p.m., 3-7 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 9 a.m.-1 p.m. Sat., Sun. by appointment.

Bodegas Leoncio Arizu, San Martin 2044, Lujan, Mendoza; 61-498-0437, fax 61-498-2086, www.luigibosca.com.ar. English tours 9 a.m.- 5 p.m. Mon.-Fri. by appointment.

Bodegas Nieto Senetiner, Guardia Vieja s/n, Vistalba, Lujan, Mendoza; telephone/fax 61-498-0315, www.nietosenetiner.com. English tours 10 and 11 a.m., 12:30 and 4 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; also 9:30 and 11 a.m. Sat. in February and March.

Bodega Norton, Perdriel, Ruta Provincial 15, Lujan, Mendoza; 61-488-0480, fax 61-488-0482, www.norton.com.ar. English tours on the hour 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Mon.-Fri.

Viniterra, Avenue Acceso Sur, Km. 17.5, Mayor Drummond, Lujan, Mendoza; tel./fax 61-498-5888, www.viniterra.com.ar. English tours by appointment 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Mon.-Fri.

Bodegas Lopez, Orazmis 375, Gutierrez, Maipu; 61-497-2406, fax 61-497-3610, www.bodegaslopez.com.ar. English tours 9 and 11 a.m., 2 and 4 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 9:30 a.m.-12:30 p.m. Sat.

Bodega La Rural (and Museo del Vino), Montecaseros 2625, Coquimbito, Maipu; 61-497-2013, fax 61-497-3956, www.bodegalarural.com.ar. English tours 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m. Mon.-Sat., 9:30 a.m.-1 p.m. Sun. and holidays.

Finca La Florencia, Mitre 1367, Mendoza; tel./fax 61-423-3203, www.familiacassone.com.ar. Call ahead to reserve English tours: 9 a.m.- 5 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 9 a.m.-12 p.m. Sat.

Bodegas Escorihuela, Belgrano 1188, Godoy Cruz, Mendoza; 61-424-2744, fax 61-424-2857, www.escorihuela.com. Call ahead to reserve English tours: 9:30 a.m.-12:30 p.m. and 2:30 and 3:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri. Closed January.

Bodegas Salentein, Emilio Civit 778, Mendoza. For reservations call 61-423-8514, fax 61-423-8565, www.bodegasalentein.com.

Bodega Catena Zapata, J. Cobos s/n, Agrelo, Lujan, Mendoza; 61-490-0214, fax 61-490-0217, www.nicolascatena.com.

Chandon, Ruta Provincial 15, Km. 29, Agrelo, Lujan, Mendoza; 61-490-9986, fax 61-490-9961, www.chandon.com.ar. English tours 9 a.m.- 5 p.m. Mon.-Fri.

WHERE TO EAT:

Montecatini, Ruta Panamericana 2650, Palmares, Godoy Cruz, Mendoza; 61-440-1097. Lunch and dinner daily; pasta a specialty. About $6 per person.

1884, Belgrano 1188, Godoy Cruz, Mendoza (at Bodegas Escorihuela); 61-424-2698. Lunch and dinner daily, except Sat. dinner only. Specializes in clay oven cookery, Italian cuisine. First courses $2.50-$4.50, entrees $5-$6.50.

TO LEARN MORE:

Argentina Government Tourist Information, 12 W. 56th St., New York, NY 10019; (212) 603-0443, www.turismo.gov.ar.