Champagne Agrapart & Fils Blanc de Blancs

For grand occasions, the French pour Champagne with abandon. Much of it is not the grandes marques, but Champagne from small producers such as this one. Agrapart & Fils, located in the grand cru village of Azize, was founded in 1894 and is now owned by the founder’s great grandsons, Pascal and Fabrice Agrapart.

Their non-vintage blanc de blancs from Chardonnay, grown on the chalky soil of the Cote de Blancs, has a classic profile -- elegant and lightly toasty with masses of fine bubbles. A hint of citrus emphasizes its refreshing crispness. The finish, however, is mellow and lingering. For a Champagne of this quality, the Agrapart blanc de blancs is a great buy.

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Region: Champagne

Price: About $22

Style: Classic blanc de blancs.

Food it goes with: Drink it alone as an aperitif, or to accompany oysters, seafood in sauce or soup.

Where you find

it: Beverage Warehouse in Marina del Rey, (310) 306-2822; Chronicle Wine Cellar in Pasadena, (626) 577-2549; Larchmont Village Wine & Cheese in Los Angeles, (323) 856-8699; Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463; and Woodland Hills Wine Co. in Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111.